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A rank of small tanks

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9 years 4 months ago 9 years 4 months ago #127 by Peter Finke
A rank of small tanks was cre­ated by Peter Finke
This is a rank of small tanks built in a book-​shelf in my study-​room.
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Last edit: 9 years 4 months ago by Peter Finke.

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9 years 4 months ago #128 by Jacob
Replied by Jacob on topic Re: A rank of small tanks
what plants are in those tanks? You pre­vi­ously men­tioned water sprite and java moss as being safe for black­wa­ter con­di­tions, I can’t tell if there are other plant species in your tank pho­tos.
I’m cur­rently plan­ning a choco­late gourami tank (a slightly big­ger licorice gourami tank I guess), and want to use water sprite, but would love to add some­thing like cryp­to­co­ryne (if it is even pos­si­ble to use sub­strates in a black­wa­ter tank).
Float­ing and emersed water sprite seems like a good idea, but what plants are in the tanks you’ve got pic­tured here?

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9 years 4 months ago #132 by mar­tin
Replied by mar­tin on topic Re: A rank of small tanks
Hello, becouse I’m still wait­ing for my P. deiss­neri I’m dur­ing set-​up a new tank for my P.sumatranus. I have one prob­lem — in small tank ( 1015 L) with­out elet­ric heater are prob­a­bly big tem­per­a­ture changes beetwen day and night ? Is this good for Paros ? What max and min. tem­per­a­ture is ideal (like in nat­ural habi­tats) for paros ? and is this could be gen­er­al­ize for all species?

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9 years 4 months ago #133 by Peter Finke
Replied by Peter Finke on topic Re: A rank of small tanks
Reply to Jacob:
Jacob, you asked for the plants I use in my small tanks. I could take that as a dif­fi­cult or as an easy ques­tion. It’s dif­fi­cult if taken gen­er­ally: How to com­bine plant growth and sta­ble healthy con­di­tions for licorice gouramis in small tanks with­out a per­ma­ment water flow? We must dis­cuss that, with­out doubt. But here, I shall take it as an easy ques­tion, sim­ply ask­ing for the plants I use.
Mostly Vesic­u­laria sub­merged and Cer­atopteris at the water sur­face, as we said already. It’s a prob­lem with sub­merged plants to stand the low light, the low pH and the low con­tents of dis­solved nutri­ents. There­fore I use other plants only a few here and then: a small piece of a Lud­wigia palus­tris or repens, a small piece of Pota­moge­ton gayi, here and there a small Cryp­to­co­ryne, dif­fer­ent species, in a small pot. For I have only a very thin layer of brown or black grav­els at the bot­tom of my tanks (much less than 1 cm), thought as a set­tling ground for bac­te­ria; it’s too thin for most plant roots. Only recently I found that a very ten­der Utric­u­laria, per­haps gibba, is doing quite well in these con­di­tions, build­ing nests of ten­der growth. Often, it grows on the sur­face, too, build­ing thicker lay­ers there. So we arrive at the float­ing plants. Cer­atopteris thal­ic­troides is best, but there are Salvinia auric­u­lata, some small pads of Ric­cia flui­tans which tend to become frag­ile and loose there, or the unavoid­able Lemna spec..
So you see: I avoid rooted plants which need to be planted in a thick layer on the bot­tom, although I love them and let them grow in some other, big­ger tanks with other fish. But I know: There are peo­ple suc­cess­fully grow­ing and breed­ing Parosphromenus in such tanks, too. I think, that the most impor­tant thing is — besides the low con­tent of dis­solved salts and nutri­ents in the water that you need for the sur­vival of the eggs of the licorice gouramis — not the low pH as such, but the avoid­ance of nox­ious bac­te­ria and germs, harm­ful to eggs, lar­vae and induc­ing infec­tions with the fish. You can man­age that with planted aquaria, but also you can pro­duce quite the con­trary con­di­tions.
But here the dif­fi­cult ver­sion of the ques­tion begins, and there­fore I fin­ish. (But we can and must dis­cuss that!)

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9 years 4 months ago 9 years 4 months ago #134 by Peter Finke
Replied by Peter Finke on topic Re: A rank of small tanks
Reply to Mar­tin:
Mar­tin, you asked for the changes in tem­per­a­ture that you could impute to the licorice gouramis. I do not know exactly, but I should be care­ful. My tanks with­out elec­tric heater are placed in rooms with rather sta­ble tem­per­a­tures between 19 and 25 degrees Cel­sius. They are heated in win­ter, and in sum­mer the hottest tem­per­a­tures out­side the house do not affect the room tem­per­a­ture very much; in any case it’s always below 30 degrees. And expe­ri­ence shows that to be an impor­tant max­i­mum board­er­line; Parosphromenusdon’t stand higher tem­per­a­tures for long.
It’s much more dif­fi­cult to give the low board­er­line. As you see, I make no exper­i­ments with lower tem­per­a­tures than 19 degrees Cel­sius. But we often send Parosphromenus–fish with a post-​parcel. There are some­times prob­lems at times with high tem­per­a­tures (above 30 degrees, as I men­tioned above), but only sel­dom the oppo­site. Of course, if it’s freez­ing out­side, you have to take mea­sures by a good pack­ing and use heat­ings packs, and gen­er­ally we tend to avoid such peri­ods for send­ing. But often the par­cel arrives (mostly after one or two nights of travel) with water cooled to 16 or 17 degrees Cel­sius, and the fish are quiet but obvi­ously healthy. Those low tem­per­a­tures are cer­tainly too low for keep­ing the fish in the aquar­ium, but if they are healthy they stand them if nec­es­sary.
Mostly, my tanks have 2224 degrees Cel­sius. “Lower is bet­ter than hot­ter” seems to be a good rule.
I don’t think there are impor­tant dif­fer­ences between the species. Parosphromenus is rather homo­ge­neous a genus; that is valid for their demands with tem­per­a­tures, too.
Last edit: 9 years 4 months ago by Peter Finke.

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