- This topic has 10 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 8 months ago by
Bill Little.
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May 24, 2017 at 11:56 pm #9298
Peter Finke
ParticipantNice a story you told us, Marcin, but I have not quite understood what the lesson is … Anyway, hope to see you again in Hamburg this September, and the we can talk about it.
I just learned yesterday from Helene that there are only very few final applications compared with those we received als preliminary notes some weeks ago. The hotel needs the final numbers; so I hope that all friends who intended to come will come indeed.June 5, 2017 at 5:29 pm #9304Dorothee Jöllenbeck-Pfeffel
ParticipantPerhaps the lesson is that there are also other possibilities to keep Paros than the traditional way with small, technic-free tanks? My smallest tanks are now 54l with Hamburg math filters. And air pump. …..;-)
June 5, 2017 at 6:34 pm #9305Peter Finke
Participant“Keeping” ist not the point. It’s no news that you can “keep” Paros in normal or big or huge tanks. The whole intention of the Parosphromenus Project is to propagate the seed of a new thinking in the aquarum hobby, especially if fish are concerned that are threatened to extinction by the nearly complete destruction of their habitats. We do not need such fish for decorative aquaria.
From an aquarist point of view, these fish are not for keeping them but for participating in sustaining them. The proposal to use small tanks is led by the overall aim to breed them. And a 54 liters tank is still a small tank. Of course, you can breed Paros very well in such tanks. I have nothing against them. But you might tend to change less water. And that is not helpful for blackwater fish or the fight against Oodinium.
For me, the lesson of Marcin means probably: In a huge tank of 640 liters the milieu for Oodinium is much less favourable than in 10 or 50 liters. But it’s no useful recommendation for most people.
June 13, 2017 at 7:53 am #9308Marcin Chyla
ParticipantHello Zwerge and Peter, I thought about what I learned from this lesson .. And the thing is if I was still though “sandard” I could lose those paros .. For me lesson is – high temperature ( 29C for e.g.) is not bad .. but it can help in case of some disease .. I don’t know why I always thought that paros should be keep in rather low temperature … 24-25C. Maybe in my conditions 29C is better ..
Paros are still fine, one male occupy a cave and females swimming around it.. But I saw second male and it was something wrong with his collors .. You can see it on the picture . Is this some disease ..? or just he is in some mod …. ( or still too young to show complete collors..)June 13, 2017 at 10:16 am #9309Dorothee Jöllenbeck-Pfeffel
Participant@Peter: I don’t want to propagate normal / commercial aquaristics. Of course we should not forget the weekly water change. (And you’re right, a 640l tank does not invite to do that.)…
I just want to try to give my fish a place where they can live as healthy as possible, because a tank is never as good as the real intact habitat… even the water – if we have just osmosis water – ro – water, we are not as good prepared for our fish as someone who has really good clean rain water or spring water with a low Calcium ….And I see, that Marcin thinks also about that, how he can optimise the situation for his Paros …
@Marcin:
That dark colouring I also once had – with Phoenicurus in a small 25l breeding tank with just a „rucksack-Filter“.
I posted fotos, but nobody could help me with an idea. I just got the confirmation, that it would not be odium…..
I guessed afterwards that perhaps I used too much of „Aquahum“ (even less as Pawel advises in his blackwater-recipe)….June 13, 2017 at 2:08 pm #9311Peter Finke
ParticipantOf course, 7 Zwerge, you are right. Breeding Paros in 12 Liter tanks (as I do) is possible but surely not giving them a milieu they are accustomed to. But a 640 liter tank surely is just the opposite, and I doubt that there are serious problems to be solved by such a recommendation. Breeding is fully a matter of chance. But if it is an opportunity, then it might help in a special case.
I think we agree.July 27, 2017 at 10:19 am #9342Marcin Chyla
ParticipantHello, my story seems to have a happy final. A have a 5 L box dippied in my big tank. There are 8 parosphromenus fry which allready big enough to feed artemia 🙂 , Now today I dippied another box with newly hatched fry .. My paros breed in film container which I placed in this big tank – I simply move the fry after hatching to the box and raise them there. Almost 100% water daily changes helps to keep water clean ( there is no filter in this box) Becouse boxes are dippied in a big aquarium – temperature is constant.
I’m happy that after a long break, I finally have a paros fry again. For the first days I feed the fry with protozoa ( I bought them during our first meeting in Hamburg – and still have my colony 🙂 )July 27, 2017 at 5:06 pm #9343Bill Little
ParticipantMartin congratulations!! Can you show us a photo of the box in the larger tank. How do you accomplish the 100% water change without releasing the fry into the tank. Removing the box each day to do water changes I would think upset the daily activity in the tank.
August 8, 2017 at 12:46 pm #9346Marcin Chyla
ParticipantHello Bill, I simply remove the water using thin silicon pipe ( I watch out for the young fishes) and then I tilt the container and I let the fresh water from the big tank comes in. From time to time I put out the container to see whats happen there , especially when I changed the food from protozoa to artemia . You can see attached pictures. Today I moved the first brood to the 10L aquarium ( 8 pcs – 2 died when I feed artemia first time ..) , hope they will grow faster. In the second container is 35 of fry ( I saw only one death from the moment I puted them there (1.5 week)).
Greetings!
August 8, 2017 at 5:24 pm #9348Bill Little
ParticipantThanks Martin — as they say, a picture is worth a 1000 words …
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