- This topic has 43 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 12 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
[quote=”Davy” post=3304]Hello Bernd,
This method works fine but I need to change to peat on background after few weeks because the pH increase.
I think to buy Kati Ani next month. The water on exit of it has a pH between 3,5 and 5. With my corner bubble filters with peat on it I can have pH between 3 and 4.[/quote]
Some peat stuff from killibreader. If you need to get very low pH levels and have it stable. Do not relate on substrate, prepare the water.Do not use aquarium peats as they seem to be processed to not be that acidic. Try to buy some unprocessed peat for gardening purposes, just make sure it does not contain any fertilizers or other aditives. Its like 10x cheaper and you can use the peat granules as a substrate for much longer, they still look ok. You need to make sure the peat is acidic kind of peat (fast check: wet the peat and put a little NaHCO3 (baking soda) on it, if it start to foam it is acidic or just leave it in RO water for day or two and check for parameters. Try different peats and find what works best. To condition the water put the peat in to some bucket and use strong aeration. This will help to dossociate the humic and fulvic acids molekules and you will get lower pH levels faster. The water you get this way will be very stable in pH for a long time. I use alder cone extract, ketapang extract and oak bark extract too ( prepared the same way, do not boil it just use small 5 litre barrels from mineral water for example and strong aeration, leave it alone for couple days) to prepare simmilar type of water. the dosage of extracts is of course dependent on quality of ingredients and how strong you make it. Learning to use it takes some time, but it will pay off. You need well fermented stuff when you are going to prepare ketapang and alder cone extracts, do not use green leaves, buy some good ones. When collecting the alder cones, find some non poluted locality and go for cones that already fell from the trees and are not washed out by rain. Hope that helps
Yes, I use already peat for gardening in sock in harveyi tank but I think that it passed, I’ve 6,30 of pH…
My peat has pH 4. I’m looking for a gardening peat with lower pH that mine.
I’ll try to put peat socks in 30L barrel and I’ll see after a couples of days.But the Kati Ani is the more simple way to have water with low pH…
Right, I agree with you, the lower the KH / us the easier it is to lower the pH.
But as I said, get to the “exact” pH value not so great thoughts, I do not do and I have last year about 400 Paros created for different types without attending to adjust the pH “exactly”. Water changes and good food in my opinion is important, and plenty of rest, my Paros see me only once a day, otherwise they are alone and live in peace.I’ll put granules peat in sock in tank to see. I’ve pH between 4,5 and 5 in my tanks, I think it´s okay because I reproduce my paros.
which is quite sufficient if you feed the pH value goes even further down, but levels off at some point a at a value. Spawning make Paros even in low water but it does not develop into larvae thus there are no pups, ornaticauda is there a very good example, they lay eggs at pH 6, but there are no larvae.
Yes, ornaticauda needs very low pH to fertilize the eggs.
I’ve several juvenils tweediei and spec. Dua now. The bigger eat moina already.
Hi, Davy,
sorry for the belated answer, but I have been away for a short holiday – and (what always keeps me from logging in here as often as in winter) – there’s so much work to do in the garden …………….
I use gardening peat (as described by Deepin Peat) to prepare the water for the tanks and the weekly water changes. I put about two handful of it into a nylon stocking and hang it in a 10 l watering can filled with rain water. I leave it there for about a week, until the next water change. It works only a few weeks, you have to control the pH from time to time. When the peat is washed out, you have to change it.
I use peat granules only as a thin ground layer in the tanks.
Spawning make Paros even in low water but it does not develop into larvae thus there are no pups, ornaticauda is there a very good example, they lay eggs at pH 6, but there are no larvae.
Bernd and Davy,
My ornaticauda do have fry actually. I’ve discovered them two weeks ago! The pH of their tankwater has never been underneath 6,3. Conductivity around 50. According the species page, this isn’t exceptional.
So I fully agree and confirm Bernds previous posting, expressing that the pH is an overrated parameter.
To get on topic again: I use peat fibers as ground layer. Paros of all ages love to hide under it.
Congrats on P. ornaticauda fry. I think every parametr as such is usually overrated. The problem is that there usually is some equilibrium of parameters needed for the eggs to develop and the larvae to survive and in most of the cases there will be multiple equilibria with some of the parameters involved that we prolly dont even know about.
Likewise, I also think just a clutch (30 eggs) discovered during my ornaticauda, hopefully it will this time something …………………. at 5, 2 pH
and 50% water change.Now he tries to do so,’ve razed water change (13 us / pH 4.1) which has worked once. Tomorrow or the day I’ll know it.
Last week I had scrim at least another 2 larvae from 20 eggs. The course I have not taken out, so I block my no aquarium and since I have thoroughly cleaned all aquarium 10 days ago, so have no more algae in the aquarium, the survival Changen the two larvae are very low.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.