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Hello,
I received a couple of phoenicurus 3 weeks ago from Martin Fischer.
3 weeks = 3 breedings
pH 5,60 – 35 us – 25°
All the time, my male eat all the eggs after 1 or 2 days 🙁
I’m waiting for a breeding box to isolate the cannister with eggs and without the male.
Not being a paro expert yet I still would not blame the male first. Him eating eggs is much more likely to be for a reason than him being an egg eater. If it is a young pair of fish poor fertilization could be a problem as with a lot of other species and even if is not, environmental conditions like pH, humic substances or temperature could be wrong. What is suficient for other Paros at your stock does not have to be enough for your new fish.
I don’t blame him! I think the eggs are not fertilized. I’ll see that when the new eggs will be isolated.
Yeah but if they die becouse of high pH or for some other reason, you still will not know if they were fertilized or not. Becouse most of the fertilized eggs that die will die during the very first stages of developement. So if you isolate the clutch there is no guarantee you get information you wanted to get if the eggs do not develop. Just comes to my mind. Are the eggs so whitish that the perivitelline space is not visible? And if yes, could it be visible under strong light? If you are planning to take out the eggs anyways, could you have a look? Than you clearly know if the cluch is fertilized. On such big eggs it should be even visible without magnifying glass. If its not visbble becouse of the eggs coloration, than using some dye like methylen blue could help, as it would penetrate unfertilized eggs much more than fertilized ones. But you would have to check with some fertilized eggs first to be able to tell the difference.
I’ve 4 Paros species, no problem with the 3 others and many offsprings. Phoenicurus is not a difficult specie. My water conditions are good for them.
Eggs not fertilized is a supposition for me and my only way to verify this supposition is to remove the fresh eggs to the male and isolate them on the breeding box.I had that problem several times. The male well guarded the the nest… unless, the eggs spoiled for some reason. I would check the eggs with a flash light once a day. I believe my problem was probably water parameters, of some sort. This was with PARVULUS and keeping the low pH stable…. seemed to be a common problem with them.
Checking the brood with a light never seemed to bother him if done quickly. The breeding cave was placed near the front of the tank and facing out for easy observations. If the eggs are fertile, they will check good for a day or two before seeing spoilage…if not fertile they spoil quickly…. in hours.
From my experiences.
Yes, what Ted says makes sence to me, as most eggs do not last for days when they are not fertlized. The only disadvantage with labyrinth fish is that they have whitish eggs and you can not tell they were not fertilized becouse they do not get white within couple hours. Only some killifish eggs last very long even when not fertilized as they have the super thick chorions, but again they turn from clear to white and even before that you can clearly see there is no perivitelline space in there so you can remove them before any kind of fungus becomes an issue. Thats what seems to me like a problem when you remove the eggs and hatch them without the male as I dont know how to recognize the dead eggs before they are covered by fungus. I have to try on my own as soon as I have enough offspring of my first paros.
Martin keep phoenicurus with pH 5-5,5, 40-90 us. My parameters are good.
I’ll try to lower my pH under 5,5 but I think is not the reason why the male eat the eggs…Also try to check your pH meter calibration, if your measurements are correct. Measuring in very low conductivity environments as we do with Paros will often lead to dilution of KCl solution in the electrode, so proper storing of the electrode in the 3M KCL storage solution and its frequent changes as well as frequent calibration should be matter of course. I have just checked my pH meter after approximately 3 weeks of frequent measuring and I was getting an error of about 0,4, so it seems like I have to check the calibration even more often. When measuring waters with higher volume of dissolved substances and higher pH, the calibration usually lasts much longer, at least for me.
I use combo Hanna 98129. I keep the electrode in storage solution. I use combo 1 time per week to control pH and conductivity in my 4 tanks. Sometimes only 1 time per month. My electrode is good calibrated, my tap water has pH 7,75 and 680 us of conductivity, after RO and resins, my water has pH 7 and 0 us…
I’ve change water this morning on my tanks, I’ll mesure the pH tomorrow.
No new breed for my phoenicurus because they eat a little of brine shrimp. I’ve bought new Moinas from interaquaristik because mines are dead but not sent yet.Why all the effort. I oak my PH unit maybe twice a year. In nature, the PH value holds even for equipment and specifications. You can be sure that the fish it does not matter whether the PH is 5.1 or 5.5. In its habitat, the PH value changes safe after a rain in minutes without which he gets into trouble. Think that is intended to show a PH unit rather where Ph is acidic or alkaline, the value is in the aquarium anyway not stable and changes with changes of water and food.
Thank you Bernd, Glad that was brought up again . I remember messing with my first tank of paros everyday trying to get exact readings on everything!! lol Well, in my tank I did not get monsoon Season nor a dry season. The Paros are very tolerent of ph etc. Just the spawning and egg hatching has more specific requirements ranges, that I assume is during the dryer season with less fresh water flushing.
Yes but the problem is not here! My combo works fine.
The problem is that my phoenicurus male eat the eggs after 2 days…
I had pH of 5,60 in the tank with 2 cups of peat granules, I change it for 4 new cups. The water is very dark! I changed water this morning, I know that my pH is under 5,60 and I’ll mesure it tomorrow to see.
My male has made a big bubble nest on the cannister but the femelle is not ready to breed because she eat only a liitle brine shrimp, she prefers to eat Moinas!
I’m waiting Moinas from Germany…I completely agree with your statement Bernd, fish do not mind wether its 5.1 or 5.5 at least in most cases. For most species there is a safe range where eggs develop just fine. I was just talking about the case where the value shown by the pH meter would be under 6 and in fact in my particular case was 6 and a little higher which could even work for Paros, but would not work for other species I have. I also use my pH meter a lot as I prepare a lot of different types of water and some cultivation solutions for algae. I think it also depends on the type of electrode and type of device. I used to have very precise laboratory type devices couple years ago and I think the calibration lasted much longer, but I have obtained normal type stuff after it got old for the very exact reason you are mentioning. It realy does not matter if the pH is little higher or lower as long as you are within the range needed.
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