oodinium

[Rafael Eggli]

Hey martin

If the parasites are actually oodinium, they belong to the group of dinoflagellates. Some of these actually do have the ability to form a cystic stage which can survive conditions the living microbe could not. Therefore and since you probably won’t be able to exactly determine what species you’re looking at, it is a good idea to wait a few days under normal conditions and then rise the temperature again.

I would go back to normal temperature for some days and then rise it again for maybe one week or so. Then I would again just watch very closely at the animals the consecutive days… if something should have survived just redo it…
My experience (not with paros) is that it can take up to four such cycles…

Greetings Rafael

[Peter Finke]

Martin, I know only one mostly effective way of handling Oodinium, and that is a treatment with fresh (yellow!) 2-amino-5-nitrothiazol; if the powder has become brown already, you can forget it and throw it away. The substance was formerly in Spirohexol (JBL) and Hexa-Ex (Tetra), but both companies seem to have changed the composition of their products; the new ones do not seem effective any more. The pure substance is hard to get hold of since (at least in Germany) only veterinarians are allowed to buy and use it. So we are largely left with conservative treatments. Methylenblau und Malachitgrün are not very effective.

I think, the best conservative treatment is that you have used (rise of temperature)and its optimization suggested by Rafael. But you could try to make it still more effective by adding normal table-salt (=Natriumchlorid), about a table-spoon for 10 liters. Paros do not like Calcium in their waters, but they stand quite a lot of Natriumchlorid. The parasites seem to leave the fish-body in the course of several hours or days. Then you should place the fishes in fresh water with the right water values. The method is not sure, but generally safe.

[Marcin Chyla]

Thank You RafEg and Peter – I will do a temperature cycle rounds and I will use salt to “cleaning” paros tanks.. I hope salt will work even if oodinium can make a cystic stage.

If this way will not work – I will ask my cat’s vet if He have a bit of nitrothiazol … ( as You suggested a Year ago Peter..:) )

Best regards !

[Russell Green]

Hi all.

I would like to add my experiences.
I agree with Peter about the use of salt. However, I used pure sea or rock salt at the same dosage as Peter suggests.
I decided to give it a try because no spirohexol was available in the UK, and a friend suggested it’s use. I have used it successfully on P. Bintan and P. Phoenicurus as well as some black water Bettas.
It works very quickly. with no side effects. In fact, the Phoenicurus were displaying again within days.

[Russell Green]

This is one of the types I use. The other is also made by Saxa, and is labelled pure sea salt.
Hope it helps.

[Bernd Bussler]

Anyway. I think the chemistry is rather the right one.
On the other hand, it is so that the fish are only given Odinium if they are weakened and arise only in care problems, stress or similar. Odinium is certainly present in every water, but similar to humans, a disease does not break out until something is not running properly. Just take a means out of the trade that works. And to make sure that the nursing conditions are as good as possible, warm food and plenty of rest will surely help the animals are healthy and stay. In 20 years I only had odinium for new arrivals, unfortunately with total loss.
By the way, someone has written the Paros 25 ° celsius should be cultivated, I consider that for too little, 27 ° celsius are my optimal
Greeting Bernd

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