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Hello, unfortunately one more time I have oodinium in my tank with new Parosphromenus fishes. This time I decided to not give any medicine ( SERA Costapur f eg. ) but to use temperature ..
I read that oodinium ( all stages) die in 32-34 C – is it truth..?
I moved all of 7 fishes and put them in to a my 625 L tank with Southamerican Eartheaters ( Satanoperca species). I used my big ( 25x25x25 cm) net and I placed there a piece of oak tree with leafs. Then I started to rise the temperature to 32.2 C
Paros were very well ..! Males started to swim around the female and against eachother. Oodinium gone ! wihtin few days.
Now it’s 7’th day of this curation .. fishes are well but I have doubts ..
Is the Odinium realy died in this temperature or it only stop breed .. ?
Does Odinium have a mold spore ..? wchich can survive in high temperature?
Should I decrease the temperature to a normal 25 C and wait a week and then again rise to 32 ..?What are Your’s opinion and knowlege about this subject..?
Greetings !
Hey martin
If the parasites are actually oodinium, they belong to the group of dinoflagellates. Some of these actually do have the ability to form a cystic stage which can survive conditions the living microbe could not. Therefore and since you probably won’t be able to exactly determine what species you’re looking at, it is a good idea to wait a few days under normal conditions and then rise the temperature again.
I would go back to normal temperature for some days and then rise it again for maybe one week or so. Then I would again just watch very closely at the animals the consecutive days… if something should have survived just redo it…
My experience (not with paros) is that it can take up to four such cycles…Greetings Rafael
Martin, I know only one mostly effective way of handling Oodinium, and that is a treatment with fresh (yellow!) 2-amino-5-nitrothiazol; if the powder has become brown already, you can forget it and throw it away. The substance was formerly in Spirohexol (JBL) and Hexa-Ex (Tetra), but both companies seem to have changed the composition of their products; the new ones do not seem effective any more. The pure substance is hard to get hold of since (at least in Germany) only veterinarians are allowed to buy and use it. So we are largely left with conservative treatments. Methylenblau und Malachitgrün are not very effective.
I think, the best conservative treatment is that you have used (rise of temperature)and its optimization suggested by Rafael. But you could try to make it still more effective by adding normal table-salt (=Natriumchlorid), about a table-spoon for 10 liters. Paros do not like Calcium in their waters, but they stand quite a lot of Natriumchlorid. The parasites seem to leave the fish-body in the course of several hours or days. Then you should place the fishes in fresh water with the right water values. The method is not sure, but generally safe.
Thank You RafEg and Peter – I will do a temperature cycle rounds and I will use salt to “cleaning” paros tanks.. I hope salt will work even if oodinium can make a cystic stage.
If this way will not work – I will ask my cat’s vet if He have a bit of nitrothiazol … ( as You suggested a Year ago Peter..:) )
Best regards !
Hi all.
I would like to add my experiences.
I agree with Peter about the use of salt. However, I used pure sea or rock salt at the same dosage as Peter suggests.
I decided to give it a try because no spirohexol was available in the UK, and a friend suggested it’s use. I have used it successfully on P. Bintan and P. Phoenicurus as well as some black water Bettas.
It works very quickly. with no side effects. In fact, the Phoenicurus were displaying again within days.This is one of the types I use. The other is also made by Saxa, and is labelled pure sea salt.
Hope it helps.Anyway. I think the chemistry is rather the right one.
On the other hand, it is so that the fish are only given Odinium if they are weakened and arise only in care problems, stress or similar. Odinium is certainly present in every water, but similar to humans, a disease does not break out until something is not running properly. Just take a means out of the trade that works. And to make sure that the nursing conditions are as good as possible, warm food and plenty of rest will surely help the animals are healthy and stay. In 20 years I only had odinium for new arrivals, unfortunately with total loss.
By the way, someone has written the Paros 25 ° celsius should be cultivated, I consider that for too little, 27 ° celsius are my optimal
Greeting Bernd
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