- This topic has 22 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
One on the intake, and one on the outlet of the filter. There are special lamps to combine with the hose.
Hummm… I’m not familiar with this hardware. Perhaps it is not available in the U.S. Do you have a link to a site that provides additional information and perhaps photos?
From a Polish company “Aquael”.
That’s a great idea.. nothing like them in this part of the world. I assume it has to be powered somehow? Does it draw power from or through the filter or is there an additional power line? One must assume it is designed to operate on European power standards also.
All those filtering products to sterilize water using UV-LEds are marketing gags trying to soothe the aquarists consciences, I think. Nevertheless an interesting idea, so I tried to figure out something about killing bacteria with Diodes.
First of all, UV is not equal UV. Only UV with wavelength lower than 300 nm is able to destroy bacterial DNA. The second point is: those (innovative) deep UV-LEDs are still under development, very expensive and hardly commercially available.
One of the leading manufacturers of UVC-LEDs, Crystal IS, announces its industrial manufactured use in 2015, specifically for sterilization applications in healthcare, of course. Until this point in time low-cost deep UV-LEDs will keep an exorbitant price, please take a look at the list of links. I gulped as I discovered the prize of my favorite LED (265 nm, 1 mW): 288 € (384 US$), not soldered, of course. :cheer:
The AquaEL Sterilizer UV-C AS-3W (three watts?) is on sale for 25 €, less than 10 % of a 1 mW LEDs’ prize; I consider it improbable that this application includes a UVC-LED with an wavelength below 300 nm as required.List of sources (partially in German)
- Wasserentkeimung mit UV: Potenziale von LEDs
http://www.optence.de/veranstaltungen/datein-zu-veranstaltungen/events/optence-veranstaltungen/vortraege-uv-led/wasserentkeimung_heraeus.pdf - Crystal IS Datasheet
http://www.cisuvc.com/content/datasheets/files/Crystal_IS-TO-39_datasheet-DS02-20130703w.pdf - Crystal IS claims record performance from UV-C LEDs
http://ledsmagazine.com/news/10/3/19 - Roithner Lasertechnik PRICE LIST 01/2013
http://www.roithner-laser.com/pricelist.pdf - Strahlungsquellen der Zukunft: AlGaN UV-LEDs
https://www.fh-muenster.de/fb1/downloads/personal/juestel/juestel/AlGaN______UV-LEDs_MatthiasMueller_.pdf - Photobiologie und Magnetobiologie, 2 (Photokilling und UV-Schäden)
http://www.uni-marburg.de/fb17/fachgebiete/pflanzenphysio/lehre/vmgraviphotomagneto/vl2 - Abwasserdesinfektion durch UV-Bestrahlung
http://www.mb.hs-wismar.de/~pfeiffer/Pfeiffer2003/Lehrmaterial_Vorlesungsscripte/Sonstiges/UVdesS.pdf
Hi all,
Water change always an interesting topic.
Here is a method simultaneously for the simple and rapid water exchange in several tanks.
I use this converted Float Valves for Toilets. (Photo 1)
For small tanks I use mobile valves. (Photo 2)
For larger tanks they are permanently installed. (Photo 3)
The level-height can also be adjusted. It stops automatically when the tank is full.
It’s quick and saves time for the hobby important things.
How often and how much? – Because everyone has their own philosophy.Greetings Arno
Arno, I think those devices could be of great help especially to people with many tanks. In my central array of Paro-tanks 24 of them (each 12 liters) are assembled on a small wall, taking not more space than a compact bookshelf. A photo of this has often been printed, in the Finke-Hallmann-book and here in the forum, too. Another row contains 6 of them, a third 3. Altogether I have 33 small 12-liter-Paro-tanks, lot of work if water change is tried to be practised once a week.
But it would be useful to explain your suggestion in more detail, Arno: What are these devices? You tell us they are used for toilets. But often there is a huge swimming device to be found controlling the water level. I do not see such a thing on your photos. How do your much smaller valves work? I think that they are used for filling the new water in. But before you have to get the old water out? Where have I to look or go for them? How expensive are they? And how do you manage the other end of the pipe, that is: the fresh water reserve? You have to prepare the right soft blackwater and store it somewhere. Is this centrally installed or is it mobile? In a fishroom you can do it the first way, in a living room preferably the second.
Your question: How often? will be answered in different a way. The best answer would be: As often as possible. In nature, all licorice gouramies live in slowly floating waters. Once a week a third would be great. But it’s an ideal, for me it’s far from reality. It works for some tanks but not for all. The living food for a single pair or small young is helpful: The deterioration of the tank water happens much slower than with fish fed on artifical food. But sometimes I need four weeks for a change, I must admit. In some cases there are even longer intervals. I do not recommend that, not at all, but it happens if you have many small tanks; and if the tanks are fed properly it will be tolerated by many species. If you feed very consciously this is mostly (it depends a bit on the species; the most distributed like linkei or filamentosus tolerate that) no problem. In a way you could control the readiness for spawning by this: The more you change, the more they spawn. Exactly for that situation: many small tanks, your devices could help substantially.
Therefore I think that your suggestion could prove very heplful to many of us, but more explanation for the laymen please! Go into the details!
Hello Peter,
now here the details of the float valves -system.
There are normal valves from toilets – they are not very small.Example: ebay.de/itm/Geberit-Fuellventil-Impuls-380-Aufputz-Spuelkasten-240700001-/380471136045?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
Valves from other manufacturers will also work. The transparent plastic part of the valve controls the liquid level. It is the floating part- it is adjustable.
In my 12 liter tanks that also work.
Of course you need a little space at the top of the tanks to mount (zum einhängen)
The blue tube (Inlet pipe) you can cut / saw off. (max. 5 cm)
(there are also smaller valves to buy – but they are very expensive)
The brackets I build mostly from plexiglas.
The valves cost with fittings (connection) about 22 €.
Fresh water comes from another room via a pipe. You can also use a hose. a friend also fills his tank in the living room with one of these valves.
For the Paros / Bettas I use a 240 liter barrel with a normal garden pump. (Minimum pressure 1.5 bar) The water is prepared with leaves and alder cones. Peat is already in the individual tanks.
The inlet hoses are food safe.The old water comes out with normal hoses. I use different attachments for the tanks. (Photo)
In my breeding room are everywhere drain tubes. In a living room you need a longer hose, of course.Your reply: “As often as possible”
Yes, I am the same opinion.
When the water is well prepared / modified can not go wrong.
I change about 50% every week. More often in tanks with many young fish and large quantities of forage. - Wasserentkeimung mit UV: Potenziale von LEDs
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.