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‘ello all! I tried asking this in another, much longer thread, but didn’t have much luck, SOOO…what are some safe chemicals to use to push PH down in a paro tank? I thought my 5 gallon with leaves, sticks, rain and distilled water, and an enormous amount of tannins was more than acidic enough…until I saw the green hydras congregating near the light a few days ago 🙁 I don’t have my PH and TDS meters yet (should be arriving in a few days), but I have a suspicion that if the hydras are not dead yet one or both values is higher than desired for a paro tank…in case the PH is the problem variable, I need suggestions on how to deal with it (hydras will eat paro fry anyway). I was thinking of white vinegar, which should be harmless below a ph of 5.5 (above that the acetic acid in the vinegar will break into acetate, promoting plant growth but potentially causing dangerous PH shifts). I don’t want to play around with stuff that could cause permanent skin damage…
Just want to mention that this tank doesn’t have any fish yet…still going through the cycle (ammonia is at .5, nitrates at 0…didn’t measure nitrites)
I think vinegar for not a good idea. In vinegar are always accessories for preservation include, better oak extract from the pet shop, are available in different sizes to purchase.
Hydra can be a problem, they can not but be impressed by acidic water. Without chemistry we will not get rid of them. I use Flubenol, unfortunately do not know how the powder is in English. Is not dangerous for fish and works 100%. This powder is used in livestock breeding against intestinal worms and is mostly just to get a veterinarian, at least in Germany. Should you not be successful in procuring have then write me a Privaet mail via the website, I look then if I can help you.
Greeting BerndI believe the dog medication is sold as Panacur ( Fenbendazole) in the UK.
Here is a link which may help.
http://www.planetinverts.com/killing_planaria_and_hydra.htmlYes that looks good, but for safety before out catch the fish, because I’m not sure if it’s the same means as with us, and therefore dangerous. If that’s not for you to the fish after 1-2 hours and for a 50% water change back again, or you can fish for the control in the aquarium. The Flubenol that I use colors the water first, white, milky, but after a day that goes away again. Another note, all molluscs die, snails, ie after using the agent kontrolieren whether there are any dead snails in the aquarium that could make the water bad
Indeed, even in it are safe substances that are not good, there are better and safer ways to make the water more acidic. Hydrochloric acid would be a better solution, but should be used with caution, better peat or oak extract or oak leaves, although takes a little longer until the value Ph singing but it’s safe and the animals survive.
Greeting Berndre: getting rid of Hydra (just in case this info is useful) …
I had green Hydra in my Hyallela tank and can report that I got rid of them using NT Labs Anti-Fluke and Wormer. The active ingredient is flubendazole, as in many other antihelmintic preparations. This one is convenient, though, because the flubendazole is pre-dissolved (it dissolves extremely reluctantly in water).
I rescued as many Hyallela as I could and parked them in temporary accommodation while I treated their tank. The day after the first dose I inspected the tank. At first it appeared that all the Hydra had gone but I did eventually find three that seemed still operational (I poked them with a skewer and they collapsed!). So I applied a second dose, after which I haven’t seen any Hydra at all in that tank. Incidentally, the Hyallela that remained in the tank during treatment all survived it.
I now have to deal with an outbreak of Hydra in my blackworm tank, which might be more problematic!
Try it, but I have not heard that someone has used distilled vinegar, do not have any information whether this will work. oak extract it comes safely and without harm to the fish
Good Morning , to come backt to the Original Problem.
In you want to Jeep the pH down with oak extract , how do you deal with the rising
Nummer of ppm ?
Take Carey AlexNow, if one uses oak extract is the pc always high. I use it only if it must be necessarily better peat, I only take peat. In my fish farm I take rainwater I auffange in large tonnes ppm 3-20 is usually the value. The Ph – value has stabilized over the years and keeps constant at 3.5 to 4.8. For Hydra of Ph – value unimportant, survive each Ph – value. Hydra can be fought effectively only with Fubenol in my experience. Flubenol is a white powder which is used in mammals to wormers and may, at least here in Germany, will be available only through a veterinarian for deworming to as dogs or cats. Everything else does not work. There are, however, thread fish eat and Hydra. If there is no other way dispose of the contents and heat the water over 70 degrees, which kills the Hydra, but is usually not so easy to perform.
Just to throw in my thoughts…
Phosphoric acid should be safe for this, but if I were doing that I would actually put the water in a container outside, with some plants (Water hyacinth would work very well here), and leave it alone while testing the pH at regular intervals.
Plants will also remove chelated metals from water (especially iron and magnesium), and reducing the pH will improve the ability of the plants to absorb them. The only thing that I would say (especially if somebody reads this thread and doesn’t have much knowledge of chemistry) is that one either needs to use the equation to determine the change in pH (not too hard if you have a digital probe)and add the amount called for via the calculations or add a small amount at a time and check the pH intermittently.
I have no clue about chemistry, but I believe that to tamper with phosphoric acid is certainly not harmless and advice can be dangerous for amateurs, there are certain methods that funktioniern well and are far less dangerous. It is enough to use in soft water as possible and to equip with peat or oak leaves. The rest is simply to have some patience, then folds also
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