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If you feed with care – not too much, only what is eaten in two or three hours – less change is sufficient, say one or two liters. Careful feeding is more effective than water changing. There should be water change, of course, but only slightly. If you miss it a day or even two there will be no problem, I think.
While I was at work, most of the Larvae died yesterday. I dont know why – water quality was OK and they had eaten Artemia.
Patrick, that’s sad. But in order to assess the real causes of that, please describe a bit more precisely
– in what sort of tank did you transfere the young?
– what was the condition of the larvae when you did that?
– did they really feed already?
I am very doubtful on the latter. First, the larvae need mostly about a week until hurrying around in the cave. And that is no free-swimming already. If you transferred them in this condition ( rightly) then they are by far not ready to consume food. They still feed on the reservoir they have for their own. Until they really swim free they do not need anything else. It is often nearly a week more until they really swim free and must be fed. And very often then Artemia is too big for them.
So, please tell us a bit more precise what you did and saw when. I doubt that they really fed already on Artemia. And they might be damaged by the development of bacteria by too early given uneaten Artemia.09/19 mating (conductivity 30uS, pH 5, temperature 22-23 degrees)
09/27 cave with larvae (under water) was put in an fullglass aquarium(cleaned with alcohol 70% and washed with tap water) with 4l water from the Paro-tank, added heater and air pump
09/29 larvae were swimming free, cave put out and added java moss and salvinia
09/30-10/03 feeding with paramecium from another aquarium and with infusoria from protogen granulate
04/10 first feeding with artemia in the evening (I saw the larvae eating, orange stomachs)
05/10 water change (2l with water from the Paro-tank) 3xartemia
06/10 feeding with artemia in the morning – in the evening most of the larvae were dead, Conductivity 32 uS, pH 6, temperature 23 degrees, water change 2l with water from RO
07/10 feeding with artemia, water change 1l with RO water, 5 larvae alive, 2 dead, at the moment the survivors are very calm but they are eatingNitrite was not tested (no test), but the water is clear
I dont know what went wrong…
perhaps I should try to use a net box for guppys (Laichkasten) with java moss in the aquarium of the parents…?Patrick, thank you for your short diary. In the moment I cannot detect any bad mistake that you made. The development of the single stages seems to be fully correct. I can see only two possible causes:
1. either too much change with waters not fully identical with the original tank-water,
2. or fed too much Artemia with an overload of organical waste to the water
I recommend you the following:
3. If your pair is a good pair, it will breed again soon. If your tank is full of plants, leave the next fry where they are with their parents. Often, some or many young will survive (“extensive breeding”).
4. If your tank is not full of plants, remove the adult fish at that stage whre you removed the young this time. If you have a similar tank, the adult pair will breed again when you put it in there. Mostly, Parosphromenus breed soon after a good feed, a water change, or transferred in a new tank.
5. Feed infusoria a bit longer and Artemia a week later.
Good luck!Hi Patrick,
sad to hear. I had also a bit of a unlucky hand with the fry.
It´s hard to say for me what can be the reason but I can tell my
observations.
Like I wrote before, with my first fry I had a high loss rate in the first days
till I changed the setup of the box. They were doing fine till an age of 4 weeks
than I noticed that every day one or two were swimming weard. They were swimming
with the head down and it looked like the tail was drifting up, in the end of the
day they were hanging at the watersurface and they were turning slowly white from behind.
So checked one of them with a loupe and there were little white dots moving around on this
little fish. This little creatures were eating somehow the little fish alive.I took all the fry left and put them into a breeding box from Se.. which I hung into
the tank of the parents. The sponge filter in the tank was placed in a way that the water
is dripping all the time into the box. It works the same way like the “Gerdkasten”.
They are all healthy and grew a lot.The second load of fry I seperated grew well without any losses the first 1,5 weeks.
Unexpected I had to go somewhere for 5 days and had to show my girlfriend how to feed
artemia. When I came back all of them were gone. 🙁My fry could take artemia from the first day but I noticed a development in eating.
First days the artemia have to swim more or less into the mouth of the fry and you have to feed a lot. They are not very active hunters, that´s the time where a lot of artemia end up dead in the breeding box. So cleaning the box is a fulltime job.
After some days they are hunting actively and swim to the food.
I think like Peter, it´s better to feed livefood that stays alive in sweetwater till the fry is hunting actively.
Another risk was for me that the fry is hanging the first days in the drifting plants, when they are a bit older and hunt food they are moving mainly on the ground. That´s where I guess they are very sensitive to bacterias if the box is not 100% clean.
All in all, keeping the little plastic box totally clean is very hard and time consuming.
I think I will try the “Gerdkasten” or already running tank in future.Also interesting for me was to see that the Betta brownorum, I was raising up in the same boxes
and the same age, where doing fine. I didn´t lose a single fish.Volker
Das geht nicht im ablaichkasten, die Larven lassen sich dann nicht gezielt füttern. Besser du machst Wasserwechsel wenn du die Larven umgesetzt hast, sie brauchen einen höheren Leitwert um stabile Wasserverhältnisse zu schaffen. Ich habe im aufzuchtbecken halb Regen halb Leitungswasser, die Tiere stehen besser und wachsen auch schneller
Thank you all for help! Bernd I will put some tap water into the aquarium. Daily a little more. Can you tell my how high the conducticity can/should be? Is it dangerous if the pH rises over 7?
(Danke für eure Hilfe. Bernd, ich werde täglich etwas Leitungswasser zugeben. Wie hoch darf die Leitfähigkeit und der pH Wert ansteigen? Sind pH Werte über 7 gefährlich?)
Bernd wrote, that the system I´m using now with a breedingbox in the parents tank doesn´t work,
cause it doesn´t allow controlled feeding of the fry. I should make waterchanges after I moved the
fry and use water with a higher conductance for stabile water parameters to keep the fry in good condition and let it grow faster.I totally agree with Bernd about the negative point of my system and my idea is not to find a good way to raise up fry in a new way. For me it´s just the best emergency solution cause I don´t have the space to put up an extra tank at the moment(I´m still working on my fishshelf).
The seperate plastic box didn´t work well only with intensive cleaning which was stressfull for the fish and for me. I´m still convinced that the constant water exchange or water movement is better than before. I can see them hunting for food and having round bellies but they are also 6 weeks old.
I wouldn´t recommend to put newly free swimming fry in such a box.Hallo Bernd,
für mich ist das im Moment die beste Notlösung weil ich kein extra Becken aufstellen kann. Wenn mein neues Regal steht, werde ich mit Aufzuchtbecken arbeiten.-Haben deine Aufzuchtbecken Bodengrund und Einrichtung oder sind es Cleanbecken, mit Filter oder ohne..?
– How does the set up of your breeding tanks look?
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