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Hi!
If you are looking for Shrimps, Sulawesi Caridina parvidentata are matching – just for a while. I think, they will be eaten after a while, but so long they do their cleaning work well. I have another tank where they increase very quick, so that’s a good method to move them in the paro tank. Concerning other fish – If the tank is not to small … Betta coccina and Corydoras match also. My Paros don’t behave more shy than usually.Kind regards,
DorotheeHi A.J.!
Perhaps Helene (webmaster) can move the threat to “methods”?
As far as water preparation is concerned, you shouldn’t use any industrial chemicals!
Sodium bisulfate is for swimming pools and not for small fish tanks!Hi Shane and Parosphr,
concerning the activity of this forum: someone has said, the aquaristic hobbyist has to be patient.
The fish swim, you try too keep them well, once or twice a year they breed if you are lucky and got good healthy fish…. there doesn’t happen so much everyday, so that, when the beginners questions are answered, there is not so much left to talk everyday.
But I think, thats the same in every Forum. In former times, when I began with Aquaristic, I often visited http://www.aquariumforum.de. Thats a rather busy Forum (also not all the time) but the more than our forum here is just quantity not quality. Indeed the majority of posts are beginner questions.And facebook – I am in one group, the best was that I got the tipp that it is possible to send fish overnight with Go! express (just Germany and Austria) via “shipping and more” . For me the facebook groups are no real concurrence for this forum.
Hi Bill!
I just wash the clay material, to wash out the very small powder of clay. Then I sieve the water out. So the material is not wet but damp.
Then I add the starting culture of Grindal. When the worms have hidden in the ground, I add on the surface very soft smelting oatmeal (Haferflocken). As Martin Hallmann tells in his article in the Makropode 2015, you can also add some good dry fish food and one Omega 3 fish oil Gelatine – Capsule (Hallmann said, that that perhaps brought back the red colour to his Paros …).
And he waits till the food is all eaten – then he washes the worms with water out of the box. I do it about two times a week. You have to be careful that no water remains standing on the bottom of the box. This regularly washing seems to prevent mites to develop in the culture. Till now all works well!Hi Bill!
Seramis is made in Germany from 100% burned red clay. They have told me that the indoor stuff would not contain any additional fertilizer. Calium would be contained naturally in clay …. Normaly you use that stuff instead of soil for plants. A kind a f hydro cultivation…..
If you have the possibility to get clay and a place where they burn it for you , you could use such kitchen tools to press noodles through or cooked potatoes to get clay worms and cut the clay worms afterwards in small pieces. Than you have o burn the pieces at about 950 degrees Celsius.O.k. Calium also seems to me not to be too dangerous… and I washed the seramis very clean….
Any other ideas here? Perhaps I am again the only one who worries about this? 😉Hi Helene! Just some minutes ago the census link didn’t work. I got an email “your mail to Benjamin Wilden couldn’t be sent”. With his email address.. Then I sent my report to him directly…
Hi Marcin – yes, I am also at that point. I also got them offered by my aquaristic shop …. I didn’t went there to buy some. I remember the poor ornaticaudas … they were promised for the P.P. and had odinium before they were able to be sold out. As far as I know, nobody managed to have them breeding or have offspring. Even not Bernd.
And some time ago I got two pairs of Betta Smaragdina, wild caught. Now I have lots of nice offspring from them, but the wild caught parents already died. They made the journey just to produce some offspring and then to die.Indeed, we seem to have a dilemma here. Collectors may not destroy but heavily disturb. And the fish will suffer on their way through trade. And they will die at normal aquarists – they will not care for the water parameters, forget to change the water and feed dry food.
Hi Chris,
You understood me wrong. Of course our fish must travel, they don’t live in our garden ponds.
I just said we should minimize the travels for our fish. And of course “fischboersen” ( meetings to distribute fish) are necessary for us. And sometimes we need the trade. And private imports are better for the fish than commercial ones.
I just think we should be aware about our little fish and their comfort, and to be aware, if we let them suffer for our intentions.
And – you haven’t been last year at the Hamburg meeting, haven’t you? There some of us brought some fish from far away , there were some misunderstandings and we brought them back home. Me, I lost the half of them the next months.
When I got the first newsletter about the first Hamburg meeting, I proposed to add: what species/ how many fish can you bring and what species/ how many fish do you want to bring home with you. I’m not bad in organizing, I could have organize that. But nobody thought, that that would be necessary at that time…..
I hope that this year thes aspects will be optimized.One remark to our import by Ruinemans of Ornaticauda: As you all remember, the fish first were not able to be delivered, because they all had odium. They “healed” them and sold them than. I remember, that Peter said, after we posted fotos, that they were very small and weak.
Even Bernd in Hamburg didn´t succeed with breeding them, perhaps they were already sterile.
And I think we should think about the commercial importing of our fish – transport stress, wrong water parameter …
I think, the best we can hope from commercial trade is to get a pair, which produces offspring. Many of the wild caught fish do that once at the beginning.
If these offspring can produce also offspring and we manage to distribute them – the story ends lucky and we see the success in our census…
I have very old fish – now on to 10 years about – (still no Paros) – now I see that they are grown old man and ladies …like humans.
But nearly all wild caught labyrinth fish seem to have no more than one or two years … what are your experiences? My oldest two Spaerichtys selatanensis are about 5 years old … but they have been 8 ….
One of my lessons here from is: travelling is big stress for our fish. We should reduce fish travelling as much as possible. One longer transport is enough for one fish life (even with good water). Travelling reduces life-time of fish extreme.
So: look this time, that you organise the fish exchange at Hamburg in forward! Not to bring fish, nobody needs there! With Bernds fish there is no problem there, because he and his fish are “at home” there!
@Peter: I don’t want to propagate normal / commercial aquaristics. Of course we should not forget the weekly water change. (And you’re right, a 640l tank does not invite to do that.)…
I just want to try to give my fish a place where they can live as healthy as possible, because a tank is never as good as the real intact habitat… even the water – if we have just osmosis water – ro – water, we are not as good prepared for our fish as someone who has really good clean rain water or spring water with a low Calcium ….And I see, that Marcin thinks also about that, how he can optimise the situation for his Paros …
@Marcin:
That dark colouring I also once had – with Phoenicurus in a small 25l breeding tank with just a „rucksack-Filter“.
I posted fotos, but nobody could help me with an idea. I just got the confirmation, that it would not be odium…..
I guessed afterwards that perhaps I used too much of „Aquahum“ (even less as Pawel advises in his blackwater-recipe)….Perhaps the lesson is that there are also other possibilities to keep Paros than the traditional way with small, technic-free tanks? My smallest tanks are now 54l with Hamburg math filters. And air pump. …..;-)
Hi Bill,
sorry, I haven’t been there, even that I had an offer to be picked up by car from an other IGL member from our region, because I had no time and energy for that trip …Hi, Steffen, as Peter tells, some chemicals are dangerous and we have already too much of them in our world.
Our water here near Freiburg has about EC 220, so an osmosis plant works fine. But even with an EC of about 60 I get a pH value of 4,5-5,3. (Yes, it depends on the dKh value …)
Look for Pawels water recipe here: “As I started to think much more about ecology when I became a member here and did not want to use peat in large amounts anymore, I prepare my water like this: (reciepe for 10 liters) 1 liter alder cone extract (let infuse big handful of alder cones in 1 liter RO water for a week) 1 liter Ketapang extract (Terminalia catapa leaves extract prepared the same way as previous, if you want to use it make sure to order the real stuff from Asia, brown red and honey smell, sometimes they sell almost green leaves collected right from the trees and that is just useless) and 1 ml of Aquahum (artificialy prepared solution of 50:50 humic and fulvic acids made by humidifying celulose leftovers after paper production under laboratory conditions) ad RO water to the amount of 10 liters. Of course you do not have to make such semilabarotary tricks and you may use just peat and add beech leaves in to the tank. It works fine, just be aware that soft and acidic is not enough, you need to use humic substances too.”As I don’t need so much stuff for my few tanks, I take a two liter glass bowl, put into it a piece of cattappa leaves, a small handful of elder cones, two oak leaves. I let it rest for one day, and then I add it to the water change – water. That’s enough. With Aquahum I am now very careful, if I use it, I take maximum one drop for 5l water, because I suspect that it colors the filaments of the fish with black spots.
I don’t use peat anymore.
