The
PAROSPHROMENUS PROJECT

The
PAROSPHROMENUS
PROJECT

Joshua Morgan

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 84 total)
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  • in reply to: (SAFE!) chemicals to push PH down with #8570
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Even distilled white vinegar?

    in reply to: (SAFE!) chemicals to push PH down with #8566
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Just want to mention that this tank doesn’t have any fish yet…still going through the cycle (ammonia is at .5, nitrates at 0…didn’t measure nitrites)

    in reply to: How much to feed paros? #8562
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Here’s another one…what is a good upper tolerable nitrate limit for the paro tank?

    in reply to: How much to feed paros? #8558
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Almost forgot…other than humic acids, what are some common, non toxic chemicals that can be used to push PH down in a softwater tank? I’ve heard of people using white vinegar…but those were NOT parosphromenus people, and I’m not sure if vinegar would affect the TDS as well as the PH.

    in reply to: How much to feed paros? #8557
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Thankx for all the help! Anyhow…another question: which species would you guys recommend I start with? I’d prefer one that doesn’t run for cover whenever someone approaches the tank (is that a possibility? Not a deal breaker…it would just be nice to see the fish I put so much effort into breeding), and I would prefer to avoid P. parvulus and P. ornaticauda (don’t want any devilishly hard paros!)

    in reply to: How much to feed paros? #8548
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Hmmm…get something larger than a 7L, then? Perhaps I will get a 20l tank to keep the adults in and then remove a pair to breed them in one of the 7L’s. Thankx for the quick replies!

    Another question: it is common practice in aquarium circles to take certain water tolerant house plants (such as pothos or lucky bamboo), rinse all the dirt off their roots, and then stick them into a fish tank so they will grow, absorbing nitrates and the like in the process. Would this work for paros? If not, which aquarium plants could serve this purpose? (I am cursed about water sprite…I always manage to physically break it 🙁 ) I was thinking a houseplant could escape issues caused by the tannin stained water reducing the amount of light available.

    in reply to: Adult Paros eat vinegar eels? #6572
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    [quote=”helene” post=3235]grindal worms are fine, good size. But dont feed excessively, – have other food supply as well. Artemia nauplia are the best as ‘main’ food, and then supply with other live food every now and then.
    A diet only with grindal worms would not be a good diet, as far as I know, it would be to ‘heavy and possibly fat’ – Also quite difficult 🙂 .. grindal worms cultures dont grow that speedy …
    Whats wrong with artemia – its the easiest and the best 🙂 ??[/quote]

    Sorry for the confusion…bbs are artemia, and is an abbreviation for ‘baby brine shrimp’. The idea was to feed artemia three times a week, grindals two or three times a week, and to have a ‘fast’ day on Sundays so that the fish can clear their systems. Vinegar eels would be fed for fry on all days.

    As for moina…would they eat infusoria cultured in a seperate container?

    in reply to: Hornwort suitable for paro tank? #6560
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    OK, good. Also, would house plants commonly used as emersed plants (I.E pothos, dracaena, etc) work in a paro tank as long as they were able to get their leaves out of the water?

    in reply to: Adult Paros eat vinegar eels? #6559
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    In that case, would a bbs/grindal worm diet suffice for the adults? I would raise vinegar eels and infusoria for the fry.

    in reply to: Adult Paros eat vinegar eels? #6555
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    OK…will the adults take microworms? And how do you culture moina indoors? I was thinking of having them (the moina) in two 10 litre containers with an airline, and with the moina being fed with greenwater and infusoria cultures.

    in reply to: Some general questions on paro care #6186
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    I meant the yearly cost…the single 1 gallon (3.78 litres) bottle usually costs about 1 U.S dollar, or roughly .74 euros.

    And yes, it rains. In fact, I live far enough north that it also snows…a lot 😆 …which gives me an idea where most of my water is going to come from. During winter I will try to collect as much snow as I can in buckets and store it in a large bin or bins with peat moss at the bottom once it melts. I have friends who would appreciate me depriving their lawns of a sizable chunk of their snow, so this should be relatively easy to accomplish without annoying anyone.

    in reply to: Some general questions on paro care #6183
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Mostly due to price…I’m going to be asking my mother (who is a couponaholic) to look for some distilled water coupons to push that cost down a bit. Currently, in American currency, if I change just under 4 litres a week of pure distilled water, it would cost about $52, or 38.24 euros. I’ll also be checking to see if some nearby stores have RO units, which should be somewhat cheaper.

    in reply to: Some general questions on paro care #6181
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Oops…gave the value in gallons! Forgot about litres entirely…sorry. Hapilly I can (roughly) convert between the two. Incidentally, my tap water has a TDS of about 173 (I’m not quite sure how to type that unit you put in…). The reason I asked about the TDS value was because I desired to reduce this to about 87 by mixing it with distilled water, but if that is still too high I can just go the distilled route.

    in reply to: New paros at my home #6143
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    Not particularly likely, but…undescribed form/species?

    in reply to: Would this method of softening water work? #6134
    Joshua Morgan
    Participant

    I have similar hopes…my main worry is regarding the water buffering. I know that the buffering works by having the buffer molecules take in a hydrogen ion, but what happens to them after that? Do they simply “disappear” as far as PH management is concerned, or do they cause other issues?

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 84 total)