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Hello Jonette,
welcome here.
Always and everywhere there is place for one, two or three additional tanks 😉
On the picture you see my last extension.
A shelf, ca. 25 – 30 €, bought in a construction market.
Ok, for a living room it isnt the hit, but an aquarist must set priorities 🙂
I cant help with Eichenextrakt – i use peat.Greetings Arno
In the worst case the phoenicurus must alone on the way to Hamburg, when they are needed.
But still hope that I get time for the meeting.Ca. 30 young Phoenicurus are ready in a short time. Then i can distinguish the gender. Several smaller fish in the undergrowth – fresh larvae are also here.
Participation in September I can not promise at time, unfortunately – the work comes first :unsure:
In my tanks it works whith ca. PH 5,5 Temperature ca. 24-25 Celsius and 10 – 15 µsHello Dorothee,
I take the micros with a small brush on the side of the container. Then I feed directly with the brush – without clean it.
Without problems so far.
I think there can be problems if too many micros are not eaten and then rot.Of course i understand Bernds objections. But with implementation in the members area i dont see there a problem.
I think give a chance this new feature. Perhaps inhibitions to contact a breeder can be reduced by this.
Anyone can decide for themselves whether and to what extent it participates.Now i must go downstairs – cleanest rains comes down at the moment – this i must catch. 😉
Thank you for info and offer, Peter and Bernd.
Yesterday i used panacur (powder) for horses and cows (flubendazol).
Dissolved in water before.
Panacur for horses and cows – it is cheaper than for dogs and cats 😉
0,5 mg flubendazol pro liter in the phoenicurus tank and the boraras tank.
The hydra is gone now.
The larves are ok at time. (Photo)Thank you for the Tip, Dorothee. I have still panacur in the refridgerator. It was for planaria. I think it works like flubenol. This i try.
Hello Dorothee,
the female leaves the tank the next days. The male leaves the tank at the day the larves swim free – if not go wrong.
This system runs with quindecim very well. (ca.130 young at this time)
Some problems i see with the many Hydra.
Last week i saw one of boraras-brigittae larve in an other tank – inside a hydra 🙁
Quindecim larves are to big for the hydra, i think – but phoenicurus larves ?Now with my phoenicurus something is happening too.
The first eggs in a terra cotta tube.
In the 45 l tank is peat as ground.
EC = 10, PH = 5,5 – 6, Temperatur between 24-25 C.
On the water swims a lot of lemna minor + utricularia.
Hydra grows very well, too 🙁ok, maybe some species more sensitive – or not so picky
eat.
If you want to be sure you can try the method of Gerd Arndt: http://www.aquarienbastelei.de/?page_id=307
This works very well. I’ve tried. maybe you can
the container for larger quantities Artemia enlarge.100% separation is not possible even with my system.
Dorothee’s method is more accurate since.
But this is not so important I think.
The few eggshells more of a visual problem in the tank are.
On eggshells suffocated fish I have never yet seen;-)
This is probably a fable / legend.Some Artemia varieties can be separated very bad.
Others, again very good.Hello Peter,
now here the details of the float valves -system.
There are normal valves from toilets – they are not very small.Example: ebay.de/itm/Geberit-Fuellventil-Impuls-380-Aufputz-Spuelkasten-240700001-/380471136045?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
Valves from other manufacturers will also work. The transparent plastic part of the valve controls the liquid level. It is the floating part- it is adjustable.
In my 12 liter tanks that also work.
Of course you need a little space at the top of the tanks to mount (zum einhängen)
The blue tube (Inlet pipe) you can cut / saw off. (max. 5 cm)
(there are also smaller valves to buy – but they are very expensive)
The brackets I build mostly from plexiglas.
The valves cost with fittings (connection) about 22 €.
Fresh water comes from another room via a pipe. You can also use a hose. a friend also fills his tank in the living room with one of these valves.
For the Paros / Bettas I use a 240 liter barrel with a normal garden pump. (Minimum pressure 1.5 bar) The water is prepared with leaves and alder cones. Peat is already in the individual tanks.
The inlet hoses are food safe.The old water comes out with normal hoses. I use different attachments for the tanks. (Photo)
In my breeding room are everywhere drain tubes. In a living room you need a longer hose, of course.Your reply: “As often as possible”
Yes, I am the same opinion.
When the water is well prepared / modified can not go wrong.
I change about 50% every week. More often in tanks with many young fish and large quantities of forage.Hi all,
Water change always an interesting topic.
Here is a method simultaneously for the simple and rapid water exchange in several tanks.
I use this converted Float Valves for Toilets. (Photo 1)
For small tanks I use mobile valves. (Photo 2)
For larger tanks they are permanently installed. (Photo 3)
The level-height can also be adjusted. It stops automatically when the tank is full.
It’s quick and saves time for the hobby important things.
How often and how much? – Because everyone has their own philosophy.Greetings Arno
Hello Davy, hello deepin peat,
thanks for the help. For me, it is still difficult to distinguish.
Will I learn yet – I hope.
The animals have now already get a great color. But still hard to distinguish. I’m still trying to take photos. But it is now more difficult in the aquarium.Hello Peter,
thanks for the welcome. The post was not meant as a complaint to anyone. He is only one report as much goes wrong – Murphy’s Law. 😉Greetings Arno
