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bartianParticipant
Like described on the site. I feed them muesli and sometimes pleco tabs.
I also tried breeding Enchytraeus in the same way, which appears to be very succesful up till now.bartianParticipant@Stefanie
I bought some worms from the site you recommended. I’m quite pleased with what I got and harvested last week for the first time. A succes! Thanks for the tip!bartianParticipantIt is also permitted to write in english at the IGL, so if you want to post something it’s fine when you do it in english. Auke de Jong is Dutch and there are several Dutch(including me) and French members, so not only German. For making it more international it’s good to join anyway.
I have to add something about my paros: in the dominant male the black lines sometimes fade away, making it light brown, like in nagyi but lighter. Didn’t manage to make good pics, I will try some more when I have time.
If allani is impossible I think they are sp. Ampah, despite the round caudal.bartianParticipantI am sure about my description. Never seen a paro like this. There is a clear brown band in the fins, which is very indistinct when in normal colouration. Then there is a small blue shiny band. Caudal fin is round, no filament, it´s not even conical. They don´t look like the sp. Ampah Martin Hallman put two pics of on the IGL forum. I have two bintan-like forms, but this new one doesn’t look like it at all when displaying.
Mind I only saw them displaying for a few seconds, in a series of a minute or so. Also, it may of course be they are still young and still have to develop adult colouration.
I have a small acidic breeding tank for them which only stands for a week now, I will wait two more weeks before putting in paros. Then I hope to see courtship colouration.
bartianParticipantGood to hear their habitat is still intact!
Beautiful fish! Really different from other paros.
bartianParticipantIt’s the same as rainwater, except it isn’t polluted by gases from the atmosphere since it is in solid form. It is H2O in the most pure form you’ll probably find in nature. Upon touching the ground it will of course be contaminated, but a forest floor normally won’t give problems.
If you want to carry around such an amount of water and have time to collect it (it takes a lot of snow indeed) during the walk you could give it a try.
bartianParticipantWhat you mention is one of the reasons I am looking for an alternative for peat. At the moment I mostly use oak leaves and some peat I bought long ago, but I don’t want to buy new peat. That would be hypocritical.
It is of course a small quantity, but a lot of small stones make a mountain.You said the main reason for acidifying water is the anti-bacterial and anti-fungal effect of low pH. At university where I am studying I learn that fungi grow optimally at low pH. In a practical course we had to grow yeast from orchard soil in medium with pH 4,5. This, coincidentally, is the pH I like to keep my paros at. How does this correspond to what you said? Is it only the bacteria that matter then? In that case, couldn’t we just pour in some kind of antibioticum? And do you know which specific bacteria are harmful for our paros?
With google I found this article. In this experiment the researchers examined relationship between soil pH and bacterial and fungal growth. Apparently at pH 4 bacterial growth declined with 90% with respect to pH above 7. Fungal growth, on the other hand, showed a maximum at pH 4,5(and declined sharply at pH 4!).
As I said before, bacteria and fungi should not be generalised, so generally reduced bacterial and fungal growth does not mean the harmful organisms in question are inhibited by (very) low pH. Also, English soil is not the same as a Bornean swap. Still, I find this quite interesting.bartianParticipantYou could also go to the IGL-tagung this spring. Here a lot of species will be sold by breeders. P. linkei is a good species to start with, but in my opinion the bintan-variants are also quite easy.
bartianParticipantWhere do you live? Utaka in Amersfoort has some bintan-like fish in stock. Betta’s Pride in Gouda specializes in Betta and other labyrinths and mostly also has paros.
@Peter
C. bullosa is traded sometimes, is this the real deal or some other species resembling bullosa? I would like to give it a try then.bartianParticipantI try new plants regularly, and most do not survive. But when they do I leave them there. In such a way I composed some tanks with mainly cryptos, Java fern and Ceratopteris. Most cryptos do fine here, even in really dark water. I also found Sagittaria subulata does well in every condition I created. From highly acidic blackwater to room-temperature with a lot of light. This plant will make nice lawns with a lot of space beneath so that paros can hide under it.
bartianParticipantI accidentally put it in there when adding Pistia. It started growing over the surface and soon after took over the tank. I now let it float in my other tanks.
You’re planning to keep macrostoma in another tank? Better don’t mix or the paro’s might get eaten.
Betta are great too, I’m keeping four species at the moment.
bartianParticipantYes, that is true. It is better to do like nature does.
bartianParticipantI’m sorry, I’m a bit sleepy so not reading very well.
Bacteria are strongly differentiated and should not be generalised as harmful. We are dependant on a lot of different bacteria species. We can’t live without them. Saying acetic-degrading bacteria are bad because some other bacteria are, is like saying all fish are dangerous because you once stepped on a stingray. Indeed you don’t want Vibrio cholerae in your tank, but Nitrobacter are essential. What I’m trying to say is, the mily clouds are not necessarily harmful.
But I’ll look what happens in a testing tank.
bartianParticipantYes, but bacterial growth is not necessarily bad.
Now that you are saying it, how did you measure the number of bacteria?
bartianParticipantHoi, nog een Nederlander hier!
Tank size really isn’t a problem. I have a lot of fry growing fine alongside Betta strohi in 160 liters. I dared to try this because it is the sp. Sentang, which is quite common so no big deal when the fry wouldn’t survive. This tank is full of Ceratopteris, which is, in my opinion, perfect for rearing fry. In contrast to javamoss this plant rapidly dies and grows, producing al lot of waste which is consumed by small organisms, which in turn are a perfect food for fish fry. This is a lot more like how it happens in nature.
It appeared to me these fish are actually quite easy to breed with a lot of Ceratopterus. The tank is not even really acidic and I feed mainly frozen food.
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