The
PAROSPHROMENUS PROJECT

The
PAROSPHROMENUS
PROJECT

Bernd Bussler

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 255 total)
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  • in reply to: My sp ‘sentang’ journal #8897
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    Now I do not know whether in Aqua Medic chemicals have thus not yet engaged me. But I think that everything that is produced in the industry in large quantities is loaded with chemicals. Of course I know of aquariums friends who use it that it should be good, and is used particularly for new installations, but that was more suitable for community aquariums with less sensitive fish, but I never heard that it is used for Paros, the better when it works. I know how difficult it is to create stable water values ​​for Paros, I do it all the same for about 20 years. I think that it is working with water additives to get quickly to the water values ​​to finally maintain Paros, the water parameters change in the degradation of additives too fast and are too unstable for beginners especially difficult it is better to be patient and by natural “additives” such as humic substances, leaves, or service similar to the water values ​​stabilize.

    in reply to: My sp ‘sentang’ journal #8894
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    I also think the chemistry in an aquarium has no place. Aqua also Medic Easy Line 90 is certainly not free from chemicals. The best you practice patience and letting things take their run, stable water just needs time. It helps no one if you reach the water parameters in a short time, and the animals die because the water is unstable.

    in reply to: My sp ‘sentang’ journal #8888
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    Hello, Now I would like but also to have your say.
    This all sounds very dramatic. First of all, alder cones in my experience not the best choice, they will get moldy quickly and pollute the water addition. Let’s try better with peat in a small filter. And you do not head to the PH value is going down at regular feeding alone. From experiments with vinegar I advise, as the pH value does not remain stable and very you schwankt.Wenn plants in the aquarium have and it is your survival experiments, the good, I have no plants, survive nicht.Stattdessen my water values I and peat music in my aquarium that goes very well for years. For most Paros you do not need extreme PH values just below 5 or 5 is sufficient for most species, once a week change of water is much more important

    in reply to: feeding drosophila #8779
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    I used to be bred Bettas, since that was a perfect food, but for most Paros these flies are likely to be too large, perhaps the larvae of Drosophila are good to feed, but the effort is likely to be something big.

    in reply to: Using rain water in an urban area? #8740
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    That’s very sad.
    Paros are very sensitive to chemicals. I know of one case in which a flea powder was used to treat a dog. That was in another room in the Paros have been maintained, while almost all animals died.
    Well cheer up, the next time will not happen to you the safe again. :cheer:

    in reply to: Using rain water in an urban area? #8733
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    Welcome Gianne
    I breed for over 20 years Paros and only use rainwater, live in a big city and still very close to an airport. I think so that my rainwater carries pollutants, but in nature it is safe too. Where our Paros cars and laundry in the streams and rivers are washed come, it’ll make you more worry. Important is sure the temperature of temperature depends on the egg development. At 25 or 27 ° C, the eggs develop in 2 to 3 days, it is cooler, it may take up to 5 or 6 days. Since the water is contaminated with germs have the germs without harming the eggs at cooler temperatures more time. Germs in the water can not be avoided, but by frequent water changes, with me once a week 50%, germs can be minimized. I caught Parosphromenus in Malaysia / Selangor at 30 ° C in fast running water. For Paros I have on average 26 ° C with me, that seems to be a temperature at which almost all Paros feel comfortable, it is also at 22 ° C, just try it.
    True, I have in the biotope of harvey also coccina caught, but not to the creek right but in small remaining pools of water with large quantities of vegetation and wood, we had so to say dig

    in reply to: parosphromenus phoenicurus #8692
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    No you do not have the values are ok walking Ph value through the feed still down further, but it is under 5 that is itself very well, it will come just a little patience

    in reply to: (SAFE!) chemicals to push PH down with #8691
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    I have no clue about chemistry, but I believe that to tamper with phosphoric acid is certainly not harmless and advice can be dangerous for amateurs, there are certain methods that funktioniern well and are far less dangerous. It is enough to use in soft water as possible and to equip with peat or oak leaves. The rest is simply to have some patience, then folds also

    in reply to: parosphromenus phoenicurus #8689
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    The water values see not so bad, but the Ph value you still need to do something that is too high. It may be that are not fertilized by the non-optimal water conditions the eggs and are therefore no longer maintained by the male. Actually, it is not glue the eggs when the ms is too high in the bubble nest. But 83 ms should be no problem. How offt you doing water changes, could be the germ load is too high

    in reply to: P.parvulus fry #8681
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    That sounds good anjunganensis I would also like to make time.
    Helene is right when she says that should not be separated too early from his parents the young animals. I suppose the boys only, out when the boys have completely recolored with the entire breeding cave, from white to “black” in this method I now swim about 50 young parvulus. Must say though that I parvulus actually very intensiev breeding to the stock in the Project a bit of lift. Unfortunately that does not work at ornaticauda.https://www.parosphromenus-project.org/media/kunena/emoticons/sad.png

    in reply to: (SAFE!) chemicals to push PH down with #8675
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    Now, if one uses oak extract is the pc always high. I use it only if it must be necessarily better peat, I only take peat. In my fish farm I take rainwater I auffange in large tonnes ppm 3-20 is usually the value. The Ph – value has stabilized over the years and keeps constant at 3.5 to 4.8. For Hydra of Ph – value unimportant, survive each Ph – value. Hydra can be fought effectively only with Fubenol in my experience. Flubenol is a white powder which is used in mammals to wormers and may, at least here in Germany, will be available only through a veterinarian for deworming to as dogs or cats. Everything else does not work. There are, however, thread fish eat and Hydra. If there is no other way dispose of the contents and heat the water over 70 degrees, which kills the Hydra, but is usually not so easy to perform.

    in reply to: Black Worms #8616
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    -4 ° to be there, is not problematic because the mosquito larvae live under the ice, so hit the ice and catch, that will certainly be icy for a short time, so that I can begin to spring yet, my fish thank me this expense located with plenty and pups

    in reply to: Close-up of fry #8585
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    I am overwhelmed, which organization can boast such good photos and photographers, which encourages me but always my efforts yet to strengthen so that as many prospective foster and propagate these wonderful fish.
    Greeting Bernd 🙂

    in reply to: (SAFE!) chemicals to push PH down with #8584
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    Try it, but I have not heard that someone has used distilled vinegar, do not have any information whether this will work. oak extract it comes safely and without harm to the fish

    in reply to: How OFTEN tp feed paros? #8574
    Bernd Bussler
    Participant

    I feed 4-5 times a week, juveniles every day. I give only live food, which is not eaten the same is then for the next day. So I feed as needed, but every 2 days is sufficient in adult Paro.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 255 total)