The
PAROSPHROMENUS PROJECT

The
PAROSPHROMENUS
PROJECT

Pavel Chaloupka

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Viewing 15 posts - 136 through 150 (of 251 total)
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  • in reply to: bintan/phoenicurus? #7131
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    to this I would just say that if its not very often, not feeding the fish for one week at all is not a problem as long as they are adult and in good condition. This is true for most of the species. So if you do not have anyone to care about the fish well and you would have to make someone who could overfeed or do something else badly, then just not feeding for such periods is better. If you have fry, it is different and taking the risk is inevitable. With small fry, not feeding for days is quite a problem.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7130
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    if you put Moina outside with such temperatures, they will reproduce much slower, so that could be very good if you leave home and need someone to take care about the culture. But if you need bigger amount of food, temperatures from 22-25 would be best. During the summer you can easily have the cultures outside and set something bigger if you need more.

    White mosquito larvae, except the very biggest for smaller animals, are just fine for Paros. I feed them with grown larvae of this type on regular basis as I again have some on the garden (not all the year sadly) but I know about locality where I am able to get at least some during the whole year because they survive the winter in the larval stage. Most of the year there is plenty of them of different sizes. I would recommend everyone to find such place B).

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7127
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    + Be very very carefull with bought live foods, especially bloodworms, tubifex and even glass worms if they are stored uncooled and dry, in room temperatures they loose most of their nutritional value too. There are loads of bacteriae in them so you have to rinse them extremely well and remove all the dead ones. Especially bloodworms and tubifex are collected on highly poluted localities for commercial reasons and mostly contain high levels of cumulative poisons.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7126
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    Hm, from my experience taking care about the food cultures by the family is much bigger problem than taking care for the fish. So what I do is that I reduce the cultures heavily before I leave home and transfer them to maintanance mode with lower temperatures and make my family feed only very lightly and every other day. This is done with both moina and rotifera cultures If I currently keep some. Feeding and maintaining high density cultures by the family always resulted in disaster for me 🙁 By now I keep fresh water Rotifera eggs that allow me to always start a new culture and I have Moina on the garden so I only run indoor cultures during freezing periods of winter. Probably starting a garden culture of Moina would work for you to, just make a small pond or use a big barrel or something, put in there some leaves or couple handfulls of grass and leave it alone. This way you should be always able to renew your culture or even collect some Moina for the week to come.

    As for the feeding for periods of two weeks, I would just use brine shrimp, its the easiest way and there is no harm to be done.

    Hope that helps.

    in reply to: bintan/phoenicurus? #7121
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    [quote=”Deepin peat” post=3796]We have new shipment of “deissneri” here but from importers description, I am already sure that they are some round tailed Paros, not deissneri. However the trader told me that he has some direct source that sends him fish from Calimantan, so if this is right, and they are not from Sumatra at least + given the tails they are most likely not filamentosus or linkei, it could be interesting right? I just wanted to drive there and check instead of letting him send me some, becouse I am quite scared of getting bad sex ratios or fish in bad condition. They arrived on 16th last month and I still was not able to get there :([/quote]

    in reply to: bintan/phoenicurus? #7120
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    We have new shipment of “deissneri” here but from importers description, I am already sure that they are some round tailed Paros, not deissneri. However the trader told me that he has some direct source that sends him fish from Calimantan, so if this is right, and they are not from Sumatra at least + given the tails they are most likely not filamentosus or linkei, it could be interesting right? I just wanted to drive there nad check instead of letting him send me some, becouse I am quite scared of getting bad sex ratios or fish in bad condition. They arrived on 16th last month and I still was not able to get there 🙁

    in reply to: Methods to breed Moina? #7119
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    should work, just be aware that with mixotrophic cultivation and less light by now the algae may look different, it will change color from bluegreen to lighter green or even almost yellow, do not pour it away 🙂 its still valuable. For example the content of CGF (chlorella growth factor) is higher in mixotrophically or heterotrophically cultured algae. On the other hand, some other valuable nutrients levels like carotenoids, will be lower with less light.

    in reply to: Methods to breed Moina? #7114
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    you definitely do not need any p.a. or pharmaceutical quality, you should be able to buy it in normal shop, it will be much cheaper even though it probably does not matter much as you need like 1/3 of flat teaspoon once a week using 5 liter buckets like I do. Of course best is to take that amount and shape it like line and devide this in to 7 equal parts and add this on daily basis. This way it is safer as adding to much of glucose may lead to fast developement of bacteria in the culture and the culture solution could become stinky. As I repeat with all the cultures, less and more often is better untill you get a feel for it.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7111
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    Original water is best, you can take some bottle with you to the garden and bring a liter or two and exchange it partialy if you want to store the larvae for longer time in the fridge in case you see the water got poluted during storage. But I simply catch enough larvae to have enough for a week or so and store them in the original water without any problems even though it is many of them. Compared to white worms and blood worms who definitely need water changes if stored in bigger quantities, black mosquitoes larvae are very hardy from this point of view.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7109
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    + of course get some plastic food storage box with a lid and store the larvae in fridge. This is important not just to stop their developement but also the slowdown of the metabolism will preserve their nutritional value.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7108
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    [quote=”7 Zwerge” post=3783]By the way – yesterday the mosquito population in our flat had a little increase 😉 😛 :whistle:[/quote]

    As I told you before the simple rule is you have to keep denying and in the worst cases tell the family that these are Chironomids that do not bite B)

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7106
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    No problem, glad to contribute with the link. I can imagine there is very little research done on this so far.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7103
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    [quote=”Peter Finke” post=3778] Often, during winter time you are unable to get Paros spawning. But when temperatures rise and mosquito larvae are available, this period ends after a few days only.[/quote]
    Peter, do you think this is becouse of low content of ekdysteroids in the commonly used food? Of course there may be multiple causes for this but I was not able to find any data on ekdysteroids content in Artemia and Moina even though common logic makes me think they have to be there becouse they are also moulting. I was able to find some extensive paper on ekdysteroids content fluctulations in freshwatershrimp Macrobrachium rosenbergii but I only had time to read the abstract.

    For those who are not familiar with ekdysteroids, you can use google translator and read this 1 page article. I think its very interesting for those who want to know more about why insect larvae are such a great food. Do not worry, its written for aquarists, no extensive knowledge is needed to understand. 😉

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7101
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    you can leave as it is as long as you enough larvae for your needs, you can add some organic fertlizer as guano for example if you need to make the water more “stinky”. As you realized yourself, it makes the water atractive for the mosquito females as it means there will be enough food for the larvae.

    in reply to: Living food for Paros #7099
    Pavel Chaloupka
    Keymaster

    I think that feeding this stuff from your garden is super safe. Basicly if there are no fish nd no snails that are very common carriers of parasite evolving stages, its pretty much ok. Of course planaria and hydra are not pleasant, but they will not hurt adult fish so of course you need to be careful but with fry only. Feeding live foods will always bring this problems but you will raise no Paros on Tetramin and feeding only Moina and Artemia is not optimal even though Paros are much better equiped to survive on monodiets than some other fish. Mosquito larvae are the most valueble and safe food source you can obtain on your garden. Of course be always very careful with pond foods. I do not feed my fish stuff that comes from localities with fish or localities that could possible be contaminated.

Viewing 15 posts - 136 through 150 (of 251 total)