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Thanks for extensive explanation Peter. My probable bintan form males have a ratio of approximately one bubble to one egg 🙂 sometimes even less bubbles. Only one time, I was able to observe a decent nest when there was a new clutch in the cave that was housing some larvae already.
I would assume that he is building a nest 🙂 Even though I have never seen my Paros go for air directly. They are all acting like the cave is not theirs and crawling as far as they can from the cave entrance to get air for the bubble nest and then back.
True :)My differently behaving males are all the same species too. I am not sure about the fourth one, as that is in bigger tank and only fish I can see in there are the occasional fry. I know there are 2 females and one male in there, but they have not used any of my caves, which took me a lot of work with forming and firing. What I am startiing to be sure about is that having 3 pairs and one trio from one species is kind of to much.I am still happy about the cluches but I am not sure if I want to isolate anymore of them because if this goes any further, I could be sitting here on kind of to much Paros of a single species. :unsure:
Yes B) thats what they are exactly. Bloodworms or Chironomus larvae if you want. Great food for most fish including Paros and whats more, they do not bite when they hatch inside. They form little tubes out of detritus on the bottom, so if you are able to spot small eleongated structures, if you gently loosen them from the bottom and put them in to a sieve that touches the water level, the bloodworms will go trough the sieve in to the water again. This way you will get clear bloodworms for feeding. There is probably much more of them on the bottom of the buckets than just these that you were able to spot. Bloodworms can even be cultured indoors.
well most of the stuff small enough to be ingested that lives in water is good food for fish. Unless its some parasites which is very unlikely given you do not keep any fish in the buckets or a predator like dragonfly larvae. Are the worms swimming? Or they reside on the bottom? It could be something from Lumbriculidae family for example, which would make great food if it comes from non poluted waters as your balcony waters should be 🙂 Most of the harm done by feeding with Tubifex, Chironomus larvae and such stuff is caused by cumulative poisons that come from the localities of colection of the foods. So more likely than not, it could very well be good food . Of course picture would help if you manage to catch some in some transparent plastic jar.
thats how they look now. Clearly fat fry :cheer: Also managed to take a picture of two from the very first clutch. There are huge differences in size of those growing in the “big” tank. The ones in the jar do not seem to differ in size nearly as much, at least up to now.
[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VsA3HKHl1Y&feature=youtu.be[/video]
Hm that looks much worse then, they should be hatching at least soon, it also depends if you used the ketapang leave, how much tanins you managed to get to the water, sometimes to high of a concentration may harden the chorion to much and this can couse hatching problems. But I would assume that Paros should not have this problem most of the time. If you were able to tell if the eggs are developed, it would be much easier. If this is so, you could probably disrupt the chorions, but what you need to do it succesfully is to promote a growth of bacteria that would start to brake the chorions by adding some artificial fish food in there. Of course, once they hatch, you need to completely exchange the water, better is to do it twice (thats how we do that with killifish eggs that are developed but its hard to induce hatching for different reasons) and with paros where you get larve that are not freeswimming you would have to add fungicides again and hope. It would be highly risky, but if they are not to hatch anyways, may be some fry would survive. What you definitely need to know first is, if there are developed larvae in the eggs. But its really hard to say if this can work with such undeveloped larvae that Paros have. You could also try to scratch some eggs with some kind of fine paintbrush, that could probably disrupt the chorions too. I would probably experiment as much as I can if the eggs would probably not develope anyways without help. Good luck!
The eggs being yellow does not have to necessarilly mean that they are doomed already. A lot of different dyes are capable to penetrate the chorion and stain the eggs to some extend, it is only that unfertilized eggs will get stained much more. So there is still hope. If you use any type of organic dye like acriflavine or other dyes from that group, methylene blue and such stuff, it will always stain the eggs.
The rounded jar and stearing is a very good idea 😉 . I never had them becouse I stock these jars with killifish fry in bigger tanks that have heaters and cover to maintain the temperature stable. Also I mostly raised very litlle fry of each species so I use 1 liter jars and than move the fry to bigger jars and than to small 5 liter,8 or 10 liter tanks to still be able to maintain the density right for them to feed well.
so like 2 hours ago, I siphoned some really freshly hatched Sanders Premium Artemia nauplii and gave it a try with the intention of removing if I find that the fry is not able to ingest it yet. It is clearly visible that approximately 20% of the larvae were already able to ingest it. Its been 4 days since they started freeswimming. I assume that making the initial food directly available within the smallest distance possible for the fry has at least some efect if you want to get them on bigger mouthfulls as soon as you can. I perform 30% water change in the jar every day, since I started feeding as of course the water would polute quite quickly in such a small jar with something like 30 fry in there. I only had to remove one dead larva so far, right after they started freeswimming( or thats what I was able to find, but I keep the jar very clean and remove all the detritus every day with a syringe)
Just saw that you use ketapang leaves. Most of the Terminalia catappa leaves I have seen offered so far, are almost green dried, not really worth much. If you want the real deal stuff, order here:
http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?waterc&1408192802
you get 50 huge, premium quality leaves(naturaly fallen, well fermented leaves) for 13.50 bucks including shipment. This is what they really use in Asia.Thanks very much Stefanie. I have Sanders premium brine shrimp, definitely very fine, but in this case you can clearly see they do not even try to hunt the napulii because they are to big for them during the first days. As I removed the parents from the first tank, the fry is quite easy to observe as they do not hide as much as when there are adults in the tank. You can see them to have their own microteritories that at least the strongest youngsters defend against others. As there is plenty of leaves and plants in there I think the biggest and strongest fry defend the places where the water flow brings most of the food. I did not try to isolate any fry without any smaller food yet, but I will definitely try it when I get Artemia franciscana or San Francisco Bay brine shrimp if you want. It would be great if they are able to ingest these, Infusoria are hard to handle well and you are always balancing on edge of either having food that is not valuable enough or having poluted water in the culture. For Rotifera its again a matter of value. Both are reproducing rapidly and have very low energy storing capacity so the fry will most likely grow much faster when or once it is able to ingest Artemia that has huge energetic reserves when freshly hatched.
Thanks very much Helene! This looks really good as they have Artemia franciscana and whats more, they have reasonable shipping costs.
😀 they are all sharing one oak leave in a 1l jar with infusoria and they seem to be doing well, hiding and have white bellies from infusoria so everything looks fine. From what I have seen on previous clutches, some of them will be able to ingest artemia in cca 6 days. Or again, this was so when they were in much bigger tanks where most of the infusoria is near the water surface, so pretty much out of their reach. I would assume that now it could be a little sooner as they have plenty of food within the reach. I will try to make more pictures as they grow. I have seen many of those from the first clutch today that started free swimming about 14 days ago and one can see how much of a change is there. They are already very robust compared to these.
