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As far as my German goes I am worried its gonna be the same problem. Would be great if anyone could ask 🙂 Or are we sure Mr. Kopic does not speak English? But thanks even for the email. In worst case I could make my father translate the question for me.
Yeah most of the Mayfly larve feed on detritus. Def not harmfull, they are pretty fast and hard to catch sometimes, but it makes the fish sport a bit so its even better. Another nice think is they do not swim on the surface so paros dont have aproach it to hunt them.
I use them for all my fish for a long time, great food as any other insect larvae that are small enough to be ingested.
I have my C. simoni for about 3 days only, but have transfered them from tap water dropping the water from the paro tank. This way you can transfer them in to very different water in about 24 hours. If they were ok with the water before, there would be no mortality of multiple shrimps at once becouse of water parameters. I had couple different shrimp species over time and I can confirm that shrimps are even more sensitive to environmental stress than the fish. I would assume if your fish were ok after decomposition of the plants in the tank and shrimps died, it could very well be because of very low oxygen content as decomposition of bigger ammount of plants could have consumed most of the oxygen in the tank for some time. In such a case paros would survive as they are able to use their labyrinth. Seems like the most probable option to me.
As far as the hardly visible band on caudal fin goes, my new fish show this too. One of the males has a clearly visible band. Two others have almost adult coloration on all other fins but the caudal and the rest of the males can be distinguished only becouse of the green/blue edging on the caudal and other fins. At the beginning I was even worried that I could possibly have some mix of species but couple days later another male started to show thin band that is now looking almost normal already and I have seen another developing band on the other male. It seems like it takes some time to develop a full coloration as the fish are maturing. I have seen quite a lot of species where developing full adult coloration takes some time even after the fish are already sexually mature. So I do not panic anymore. It looked exactly like onthe very above photo.
Yeah my young Paro males do that too. Looks exactly like what Nannostomus males do. [video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vyoi4ITBHKE[/video] you can see it from like 0:26 on this video with N.mortenthalleri. I think its kind of messuring the strenght and size by pushing each others bodies without actual fight. I have seen that twice so far. The one male that seems to be adult already shows his normal coloration or becomes slightly paler, the smaller and weaker one become pale at the very start of it but did not run away. Kept resisting for like 30 sec before running. I have only one male realy displaying infront of females so far, but than he shows typical head down postion. My plan as soon as I obtain the stuff for it is to put a web cam infront of the tank and find a server where I could stream the tank continuously. This way we could see behaviour of the group and may be get more info on how fish interact within a group in bigger tank. Becouse every time I aproch the tank they mostly gather on the feeding place and do much else.
Thanks very much Helene 🙂 We are not getting any closer to what species they could be, are we? The male def starts to have adult coloration, but he is not displaying yet, seems like he only shows agressive coloration to all the other fish as there are def no females that would be able to produce eggs yet. I am getting them Caridina simoni autofeeding next week 🙂 as I would love to get them to the best condition I am able to. I do 25% water change every day as its a newly set up tank and they seem to love it. Even thought I feed like 4-5 times a day (less than on the vid, I just needed them to stay on spot to get the footage) they spent most of the day searching for food all over the substrate. They nibble at something on the leaves. I badly want some more Paros soon.
NP 🙂 I posted that for US members as I did not know if Aquabid was known source for the new Paro seekers who come to the site. So your information is still helpful 🙂 Btw I have very good experience with aquabid as such, one can get some very rare species from time to time.
Have anyone tried to use a grill like this: http://www.akvarista.cz/web/imgs/diskuse/0000525.jpg
What I am planning to do If am able to get my new Paros to spawn is use this kind of grill as it is used for all the kind of tetras for spawnning and put some leaf litter on it for the breeders to feel good. That would give the fry a very good chance to escape as soon as they start freeswimming without having to look for the holes between the glasses for a long time. Than for maximum safety move the parents to another tank and go on.Well I was not speaking negatively about all chemicals and of course using for example copper sulfate and dosing it in to the tank is very dangerous. The method with soft piece of copper metal was suggested by RNDr. Stanislav Frank in his books where he describes this way as quite safe as you dont get high concetration quickly and if you watch it closely you can use it quite safely as the concentration that becomes highly toxic for hydra are usually not dangerous for the fish yet. I think we can agree that most of the substances we use to get rid of parasites or pests are usually just less harmful for fish than for these organisms. If flubenol is safe for use with Paros, its great. I have used above stated method many times even with some quite sensitive SA imports. But you are right Peter, there may be methods that are safer for use for people who are newer to the hobby.
[quote=”Davy” post=3350]In France we use Dolthene against Hydra. It’s a vermifuge for dogs available on pharmacy and it works good.
No problem with the fishes.[/quote]
Yeah thats what Flubendazol (active substance of flubenol) and Mebendazol are too.This problem is hard to avoid from time to time if you use natural plancton. Some fish are able to eat them if they have nothing else to ffed on. Did you try that? If you have no experience with using some kind chemicals with Paros I would use the good old way that is very efective and safe. If you have any kind of hydra that does not have symbiotic algae to help them survive (is not green) you can try to starve them to death first. . Just use for example black (Culex mostly), white (Chaoborus) or other kind of mosquito larvae. Something big that they will most likely not catch becouse it will not spread over the tank before its consumed by fish. It sometimes works well if your fish are eager enough eaters, unless you have alot of infusoria or rotifera living in your tanks. Limitation of light would be necessary with the green ones. In such case remove the fish as no light for several days would not be good for them , natural fotoperiod is very important. If you are unsuccesful starving them this way, use a little piece of soft copper (some kind of wire or so) and just hang it in the water of the tank. Hydras tentacles will start to shorten and as they loose them you can already remove the copper. Hydra will die of starvation.In the very soft and acidic water this could take hours and the copper disolved in the tank water will bond to organic matter like detritus, peat, leaves and stuff. It works well enough to kill the hydra before the level of disolved copper starts to be dangerous for fish. If you want to be realy safe, just remove the fish for the treatment. How quickly it works is dependent on ammount of organic material in the tank for the copper ions to bond. If you clear the tank it will work faster but of course the level of toxic copper ions will be higher.Do not use it with eggs in the tank. This way you dont have to risk contamination of the tank environment with potentialy harmful substances. I hope that helps. + If you want to prevent the hydra from getting in to your tanks, next time you bring the plancton home, leave it in some bucket for like an hour and than pour it somewhere else. The hydra will attach to the first bucket and you dont have to solve this problem that often.
