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I like that idea. As Peter says it will not work for all people, but if it works for some of the members who need to empty their tanks, it would be great.
Yeah Bernd is right. The main factor you have to take in to account is that the water you will be using for the exchanges has no ions that could make the pH higher, you only dilute the environment which happens on the natural localities for xample during heavy rains. Even in the nature the pH value will vary slightly during the day so water exchanges does not make nearly as big of difference as they would if you would use tap water in normal tanks. And you can prepare the water for exchanges, which make things even easier but as Bernd said, it is not necessary. As long as you add water that contains no alkaline substances, the pH will stay within the boundaries.
If you want to get Moina, you may get some inoculum here. https://www.interaquaristik.de/futter/lebendfutter/japanischer-wasserfloh-moina-macrocopa-zuchtansatz-500-ml/a-160/
[quote=”Mark N” post=4217] Indian Almond Leaves. I have had excellent results from these almond leaves. They are widely available; I buy mine from TA-Aquaculture.com at a reasonable price.[/quote]
I think Tim from TA-Aquaculture will have the real Ketapang but in case you want to order elsewhere, get them from here http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?waterc&1420115687. It needs to be stressed out that some of the leaves available are fresh leaves collected from the trees and dried and these are not good. You will find a description of how the leaves should look in the Amy’s offer.
Hello Rafael,
welcome here. Very nice topic for the theses 🙂 . To get some basic clue, you can find all the basic info in the links on the left side of the page. Than I would recomend to go through the article section and methods forum. Of course if you need explanations post in the forum, there are lot of people with extensive experience who can help you. To get the fish, please go to https://www.parosphromenus-project.org/en/distribution/suchen-sie-fische.html
Hope that helps for now, Pavel
I had it twice too over pretty much the same period :D, but somehow they ocure every time in the tank where you have the most important and valuable offspring :angry:
Merry christmas and happy new year (all the year : B) ) to everyone. And many thanks for such a comunity.
In my opinion this is extremely overated in aqaurium hobby as such. People do not distinguish between species that inhabit very large areas and are able to move over these so the adult specimens change locations and get to mate with animals from localities elswhere or with animals from other parts of some big environment. Such species are then susceptipble to inbreeding. When dealing with Paros, most killifish and other such species the situation is different. Most of these species (I think populations would be more often than not a better word with Paros for their fast going and unfinished speciation) arised by isolating some specimens on some place caused by some big natural event. Paros inhabit small localities that are strictly separated from each other and there are no condition that could bring new animals from other places and therefore no genes are added or exchanged this way and that is why such species are not susceptible to this. All animals on the locality are close relatives for as long as the population exists and there is no problem with it. I think Peter once mentioned that all aquarium specimens of P. quindecim are descendants of fish from one single private import and have been bred and distributed since than without problems.
It is not that hard as preparing some medium type waters where you need stable paramaters.
You need very low conductivity water with very low pH (around 5) and plenty of humic substances. The easiest method is to filter or drop RO water over peat. You may buy no additives pure peat in gardening shop, no need to spend fortunes on aquarium peats, just make sure it is realy pure peat. I bought a 30 liters bag years ago and I still use it. I have raised and kept quite many fish using it and never spoted any problems compared to aqaurium products. I think it is just the companies that produce aqaurium stuff that want people to be scared to use normal peat. It may couse problems in normal tanks as it is not washed and sometimes very acidic, but you can not hurt Paros this way 😀 Dependent on the quality of the RO water you may or may not add some very little amount of harder water, I add tap water to like 10µ which is close to the conductivity on many natural localities. This is only needed in new tanks as some ions get in with feeding later, so you may continue with pure RO after some time in most cases. When using the peat, you even get rid of most of the added kations becouse the peat (or more precisely humic acids) is able to exchange kations for H+ which creates H30+ (hydrated form present in water) that is responsible for the acidity of the water as such. You may use anorganic acids for lowering the pH too as it is done in normal aquariums, but when you have peat or alder cones, it is just fine and you have humic substances added without any further needs. As I started to think much more about ecology when I became a member here and did not want to use peat in large amounts anymore, I prepare my water like this: (reciepe for 10 liters) 1 liter alder cone extract (let infuse big handful of alder cones in 1 liter RO water for a week) 1 liter Ketapang extract (Terminalia catapa leaves extract prepared the same way as previous, if you want to use it make sure to order the real stuff from Asia, brown red and honey smell, sometimes they sell almost green leaves collected right from the trees and that is just useless) and 1 ml of Aquahum (artificialy prepared solution of 50:50 humic and fulvic acids made by humidifying celulose leftovers after paper production under laboratory conditions) ad RO water to the amount of 10 liters. Of course you do not have to make such semilabarotary tricks and you may use just peat and add beech leaves in to the tank. It works fine, just be aware that soft and acidic is not enough, you need to use humic substances too.I would not be concerned about this at all. If you want to transfer the milt during artificial fertilization as it is done with most of the Synodontis species for example, you do not even have the time to suck it in to the syringe and transfer it to the bowl with the eggs, you need to use deactivation solution with the milt or it it is already out of energy and not capable of fertilization when you mix it with the eggs. It takes few seconds at most. So the current would have to be enormous and the single sperm cell would have to be lucky enough to hit the egg directly, which is close to impossible as you would need the egg to be layed just in time to be capable of fertilisationa and not to be fertlized already by the right father who is in the cave with the female. And we could go on… 😀
You may use something dark, but just for the ilustration I enclose a picture of how it looks using only leaves. When they are soaked well, they get softer over couple days and cover the bottom just fine.
[quote=”Stefanie” post=4145] And I have experienced that also very young fry diffuse between the single sections. We don’t want to mingle fry of different species, don’t we? So I would not recommend to keep different species in neighbouring divisions of one large tank.[/quote]
That is very good point 🙂 not only parasites diffuse trough the foam of whatever is used.[quote=”Peter Finke” post=4143].
A congratulation for deepin’ peats replies to many questions in these forums; they are strictly to the point and exhibit knowledge and expertise.[/quote]Thank you very much Peter, I am glad that I had the chance to learn so much of Paros related stuff from you and from others and all the information sources here. I hope to give back to Paros and the P-P in the future.
Sorry I was probably a little to brief with my answer. You may use just leaves just a loose layer of couple centimeters or if you want to put something under it, use granulated peat or fine sand. Gravel is not good in my opinion as Paros tend to dive in to the subrate when escaping and could hurt themselves. Pure leaves are great in my experience if you need to catch the fish to move them to some new tank, you just put the leaves out and catch the fish. Mainly with the small ones it is much easier than with some powdery substrate.
