Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I think you could do that but if you are getting your first Paros, I would use it like this for couple pairs of the same population from the same breeder. If you put fish from different sources in to one such tank, there is always a risk of diseases and I would try to avoid that especially at the begging.
My immediate answer would be leaves, especially from the beech. Oak is good too, but do not pick the thick leaves, they tend to go mouldy, probably becouse of some sap residues.
Hello and welcome 🙂 I am quite sure you will find all the info you need, also check the article section. Paros tanks are much different from what you did but I think it could be a very pleasant change and you do not need much space B)
I only feed them as running a culture requires some space, they do not multiply as fast as Moina for example. But some of the guys I know run outdoor cultures during the summer. I have no personal experience with how much effort it takes to maintain the reproduction without the resting eggs, but from what I know from papers, they should be quite hardy and able to tolerate high levels of nitrogen in all common forms. Biggest problems in the cultures are same during the feeding when some powder substances are used. Bacteria and high levels of suspended solids covered by bacteria that consume the oxygen.
[quote=”7 Zwerge” post=4122]And my P. Phoenicurus even are afraid of white mosquito larves ;-)[/quote]
:woohoo: I saw some 2 cm fry hunting smaller of these in the parental tank. It look like they will never be able to swallow such a big creature, but they are. Then they turn in to little balls for couple hours 😀 But my paros have a hard life, no small mouthfulls since they are able to catch bigger ones.I use ongrown artemia a lot, not to adult size, but I basically do not feed instar 1 nauplii unless I have to given the size of the fry. Ongrown artemia has better nutritional value compared to instar 1 nauplii when fed properly. Protein content is higher and essential amino acids are higher too. Lipid content may vary dependent on the feeding, but it is quite easy to encapsulate with emulsified lipid concentrates if you are not sure. I do not run flow systems, just feed the nauplii with algae where the lipid content can be manipulated by cultivation methods.
Hello Zahar,
This is awesome material 🙂 Helene is right that these are not only very nice pictures, but also very useful photos. Not many people have documented fry developement in so many stages with such clear photos. I have notes on this but not many pictures as I was not able to shot anything doable with my camera. Peease keep up this work. I also wanted to say thank you for the Cherating biotop pictures you managed to make for my article. This helped a lot.
Pavel
Yeah, but still better than catching wild Nannostomus on the Equadorian boarder where you have to travel for more than a week on fast boats to get to the locality and if anything goes wrong there is no civilisation within the reach. That is where she wanted to go with me too and I think Bangka is much safer option 😀
If the conditions are doable, I would of course love to go any my fiancée most likely too 🙂 She is pretty much in to any adventure 😀
We just have to hope they are still there :unsure: Lets hope they are in case the whole story would end up with such a trip. Given the weather here, I would gladly go 😀 but I have to build my new fishroom first.
yeah they just breed between the leaves, I have seen some of my males to care for a clutch between two leaves that were positioned one on another. If I would not have seen the leaves moving and male looking out, I would not even know there is a clutch in the tank.
[quote=”Peter Finke” post=4062]
The nutritional value of Artemia naupliae vanishes rather rapidly after hatching. It is best immediately after hatching, and nearly to nothing after three days without being fed. This does not mean that “old naupliae” should not be fed to the fishes, but we should be conscious of that. We can bring female licorice gouramies to fertility with fresh Artemia but not with unboostered old naupliae.[/quote]Peter is very right here. The nauplii may lose more than 1/3 of their nutritional value during the first 24 hours. Instar 1 nauplii only consume the yolksack and start to feed after reaching instar 2. It depends on temperature, it usually takes approximately 8 hours in room temerature before you can start feeding. You can also store them in refrigerator (temperature lower than 10 °C), then the loss would be less than 5% during the first day. When stored refrigerated, they almost do not grow and you can use them very safely for a little more then 24 hours as freshly hatched. When raising the fry I hatch artemia every other day and store it this way. If I have a surplus of the nauplii after the first 24 hours, I put them aside and feed them with chlorella that I have adapted for saline environment.
[quote=”Arno” post=4058]100% separation is not possible even with my system.
Dorothee’s method is more accurate since.
But this is not so important I think.
The few eggshells more of a visual problem in the tank are.
On eggshells suffocated fish I have never yet seen;-)
This is probably a fable / legend.
Others, again very good.[/quote]Well, the problem is usually not a suffocation but a gut obstruction and sometimes bacterial and fungal spores but these mainly have negative effect on marine species as they come from similar environment. It is definitely not a rumor. It is one of the reasons why the cysts are decapsulated pre hatching in commercial hatcheries.
