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I think that mixing reminders of fish that from different imports will be pretty much standard in the wholesale companies at least, so the risk of getting differents species form the same batch is quite high. Could very well be the case. I think Peter is right that Paro is Paro for the traders. 🙁
Yes, given that you don’t need to fight with any kind of alkalinity, the amount of acid needed to drop the pH down is very small and even strong anorganic acids that dissociate to high extend do not raise the conductivity much. I do not use it with Paros but I do with other fish that can’t stand that many humic substances with the same results. Sulphuric acid will raise the conductivity about the same,around 5 µS one drop in 5 liters. For Paros I use alder cones extract as I work with lower conductivity water at the start and alder cones extract is able to raise it a little. I soak big handfull of cones in 1 liter of RO water for about a day, this way I get extract that has something like 60 µS and I use 1/2 liter of it for every 5 liters of water. For having enough humic substances I sometimes use this: http://www.amagro.com/aquaristic.html as it is a pure humic/fulvo acids extract prepared from waste material after production of paper. This way no peat is used and you do not support destruction of peat bogs + it is free of heavy metals and other harmfull substances that acumulate in peat. The dosage is 2.5 ml/100 liters so one bottle lasts you for ages.
Of course it occures in nature but if you have a look at the composition of all the substances that makes water acidic on Paro’s localities, it will be a negligible part of all these. If you have p.a. or some other very pure quality substance, as I said, you may probably use it as any other acid. I say probably as it’s anion is a part of cycrate cycle. I am not sure about how these are capable to penetrate cell membranes if in high concentration, so it could be dangerous to some extend. Paros are capable to handle extreme concentration of complex macro and micromolekules of humic and fulvic acids, but these are proven to be good for cell metabolism. I think high concentration of malic acid in the environment is at the very least not phisiological.
Agreed with Bernd. You can use what he says or alder cones, all these are at hand and completely natural, easy to work with. If you have pure malic acid, it would work as any other acid, but I would go for the stuff that naturally occures in the water.
I would go with higher PPI(pores per inch), as you get much bigger specific surface to be colonized with all the helpfull microorganisms. The finer the material the better as long as you are able to maintain the flow of the water. If I recall correctly I one kubic meter of 20 PPI phoam has more then 2 square kilometers of the surface. If the flow of the water is not to fast, these foams almost never get obstructed. Of course it has to be polyurethan foam with open pores.
:blush: sadly there are still things that I dont know and these include your “worms” 😀 I cant see if it has any legs (even small ones) or something like that. From this helicopter view it reminds me some larvae of several water bugs, but better detail would help more. I am not good at bugs though…
Dorothee. Some, especially bigger species of cyclops (these mostly occure in summer), may be dangerous when you overfeed and the rest of the nauplii in the empty tank cant find their natural nourishment (like infusoria for example). Then they sometimes attack the fry and may bite it or even kill it. If you feed reasonable amounts in your Paro tanks with plants and substrate, it is not dangerous at all, unless you bring home some Ergasilus (true parasitic copepod that attacks even grown fish). I have seen this only once in my life when I was using a food from pond with fish and I have only seen one specimen. No need to be afraid 🙂
Great job Bernd :)! Dorothee cyclops already starts to appear in my garden tanks, so if you do not have any, you may catch some an introduce it in there. This way you always have something even during the winter. I plan to have much more fish from next year on, so I will make some more small ponds from garden pond foil to have enough live foods.
[quote=”helene” post=3926]Hello Mazzimo
The gunawani sounds interesting ? Are you sure they are gunawani ? 🙂 I bought some last year in Denmark with the label p. gunawani, – there were not that though.[/quote]
I was about to ask the same question, gunawani would be great, but it seems very unlikely. 🙁Let the icecream jar float on the surface of the water in the parental tank, lower the level of the water for it to fit in there if needed. B) 😉
And of course make sure that you have a space for the young fish to grow as you may obtain quite large numbers of fry this way and when raised intesively, they need space becouse they are quite agressive to each other. Every little fish needs it’s own little space, therefore I add a lot of leaves to offer enough hiding places when I move the fry from the ice-cream jar to 10 liter tank.
Yes, just when you find out, that you will have to raise a clutch, you need to make sure that you have enough small food. At least with my Paros, artemia is impossible to start with. I was able to feed with FBS strain after 3 days and Sanders premium after 5 days, before that you need infuzoria or rotifera.
