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Somehow missed this. It seems like you have peat on the ground? That is what I dont like as its extraction is environmentally destructive and it is quite impossible to clean the tank. However it is my opinion and there is only very little peat used for aquaristic purposes compared to other use. Using beech leaves, alder cones and Terminalia catappa leaves to acidify the water and get enough humic substances and tannins is probably more environment friendly. Just a note, no hard feelings 🙂
Looks very good. Water “black” enough, hiding places, some open place for displaying and the roots are beautiful. GJ from my point of view.
Thanks again, I thought that should be possible given the basic principles used for these measures. Will probably get one sooner or later when I have time to do more research on this and when I am sure which tests are worth going for. Photometry will sadly only improve readings, not the test itself.
The same is done with meshes for offset printing, you can have very fine meshes but it is quite expensive material.
The photometer looks cool Dorothee. Do they have their own special kit of tests for it or it is somehow calibrable with any/most tests. My German is so bad that I am not able to get this from the user manual 🙁
If there is a lot of light around, it is worth covering the non transparent part of the bowl. I have it set up on the window so there is always enough light for the nauplii to swim to.
yes thats exactly it, besides it is for free and you can construct as big and as many as you need. This was not the final article :), I am working on real article that would guide people trough all the artemia stuff, like preserving its hatching efficiency (storing eggs), right methods for preserving the nutritional value (decapsulation of eggs pre hatching, hatching and storing nauplii), bioencapsultion of nauplii and stuff like that. I hope to have this done within two or three weeks, I am kind of busy right now and it goes quite slow but I will get there sooner or later.
So, how I do it. You can construct a hatching bowl for zero cost from stuff everyone has at home. Using this method we are hatching artemia without aeration. This method is very usefull for everyone who needs to hatch small amounts of eggs as well as greater amounts, you just need to use a bigger bowl or more of them. Compared to the amounts doable with aeration, you can hatch more eggs this way. The always stressed out importance of high oxygen levels is simply achieved by the contact of the eggs with air on the water level. Even after hatching, if you do not use to much of eggs, the nauplii will not suffocate as they do in high pet bottles where all the surface is covered with the shells after you stop the aeration. This way, you get the best separation possible for hatching of normal eggs, e.g. you hardly ever see a single sheel if this is done right. 🙂
All you would need is transparent cup (from icecream for example) and a thin piece of expanded polystyrene. I think that picture says it all, you basicaly cover most of the cup with black gafa type and only leave couple centimeteres transparent for the nauplii to have a place to gather. Using the polystyrene, you create a septum that reaches pretty close to the bottom of the cup. Newly hatched artemia nauplii will swim down under the septum and will gather on the other side of the cup near the light where you have left the transparent part of the cup uncovered. There you can siphon them with air tubing or with a syringe, put in to the sieve and rinse.Hatching guide: place the hatching bowl somewhere where you are sure you will not have to move it. Fill the bowl with the hatching solution and let it stay for a while until the water stops moving. Then gently sprinkle the water level (in the non transparent part of the cup with eggs. It is important to not move the cup so that eggs do not drop down from the surface. If some of it would drop down, its not much of a problem, high quality eggs will mostly hatch anyways. If you would have such problem continuosly, add a little more salt in to the hatching solution. But if you use the recommended salinity tha my Sanders eggs have on the packing, it is so high that it should like never happen 😀
Wait (with your eggs it should be no more then 20 hours depending on temperature) and siphon the nauplii.
[quote=”7 Zwerge” post=3835]Hallo!
Now I have another question ( 😉 I seem always to see problems no one seems to have 😉 ):You can find enough different methods how to breed brine shrimps so that we don’t need to discuss them all here.
But I see following problem:
There is the possibility to breed them in breeding bowls? shells? I don’t know the right word, that gives only a small amount of brine shrimps, but you have no eggs in the little sieve where the brine shrimps swim to the light. I hope you understand what I mean …And the method to get much more brine shrimps is the bottle method with air pump.
Provided you use the best quality of eggs – nevertheless you will never get just shrimps, without eggs …
Just the open eggs swim at the top of the bottle if you switch out the air pump …I controlled it with a magnifying glass. I tried different methods. I tried special bottles from the aquaristic industry.
It seems to me, that no one really controlles this mixture, one is happy to have many brine shrimps in the sieve to feed the fish…..Perhaps our Paros will just eat the swimming brine shrimps and not the eggs???
But it is always a risk, specially with young, small fish, they can get intestinal obstruction. In this way I once lost a whole group of young Oryzias woworae … (but these are fish who eat industrial food)
Has someone ideas concerning this subject? ;-)[/quote]
I am preparing an extensive article for the hobbyists in the P-P on how to handle Artemia the right way but I will post pictures tomorrow where you can see how you can hatch eggs without aeration and have them clearly separated. Of course other possible method is decapsulation of eggs pre hatching which is the best, but you do not need to do that.
Folsomia candida is great becouse it is very easy to cultivate. This species has been cultivated for decades so they are well adjusted. Feeding with inactivated sprayed yeasts is great option. I would check both and choose depending on cultivation conditions that fit my needs.
Wow but these guys on the video are feeding like guppies 😀 Not worried about anything. My are much more careful and never stay close to the surface for a long time, just grab a mouthfull and quickly hide again.
[quote=”7 Zwerge” post=3811]Hallo DTL,
But as far as I have heard and read do Paros dislike to use the water surface for finding food …Perhaps they would ignore food living at the water surface …[/quote]
My Paros hunt actively from the surface too, you can see they are kind of carefull and usually aproach the surface from some hiding place and go quickly down but if they see anything tasty on the surface, they go straight for it.
