Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Thank you Andrjez, very cool B). Good to see the P. phoenicurus prospering in your biotope aquarium. Good luck with the ornaticauda too.
Regards,
DavidCongratulations on your excellent aquarium – and, if I see it correctly, the production of P. ornaticauda from your ‘natural set-up’ aquarium!? (or do the photos above show the young of another species)?
Have you already posted the water parameters for the keeping/breeding of your ornaticauda?And, good luck to those of you who recently obtained ornaticauda to keep and breed – may you be successful!
David
Thank you, Bernd 🙂 Your guidance leads us by the hand to take care of our paros and makes sure we have a chance at successful reproduction of many ‘pups’. I will keep a close eye on the tank for any that may survive and grow up – that will be very exciting to see, as I have been unsure if I could help a species of Paro to breed. These nagyi have made it a fascinating and enjoyable challenge, and the expert advice from the forum members something within reach of many hobbyists. I enjoy the photography as a hobby, so my apologies if I post too many photos ;).
So far, coming up on two days, the second clutch of eggs remains in the canister, guarded by the male. Maybe he will let them hatch out in the canister – I hope so.
Regards,
DavidYesterday, Just over two weeks after the first spawning..the male began displaying to the female – this time instead of “stay away from my developing larvae” to “let’s spawn again” – the female was in agreement. (Judging by the male’s behavior – he remained guarding developing larvae until the female became gravid again. I have been feeding to the potentially free-swimming larvae a nice mix of infusoria, microworms and artemia).
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/j4vHSe.jpg[/IMG]I must correct a previous statement “this male never displays in the head-down position” – actually, sometime he does..
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/ExPTQY.jpg[/IMG]But the most purposeful and intense displays still take place as the horizontal-sideways form..feeding time really brings on the displays, it seems.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/908/MemZV1.jpg[/IMG]I noticed that male dorsal area changes colors depending on mood..
Non-display mode
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/Mc1ZlZ.jpg[/IMG]Display mode – it is much darker
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/86K3Ab.jpg[/IMG]Here a very nice portrait of the displaying male (yesterday afternoon same time as all of the preceding photos). This population/variant is really spectacular!
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/905/lMIVhS.jpg[/IMG]So this morning, while I was away at work…the second successful spawning of this pair took place 🙂 I could only photo the male tending what looks to be ~20 viable eggs in a very robust bubble nest. The male chose the canister again over all the other spawning sites. Aside from these couple of photos of the canister, I will keep disturbance to an absolute minimum. Hopefully the male will allow the eggs to develop in the canister so I can photo any larvae that should develop and hatch several days hence.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/0mlHiR.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/hmfBX7.jpg[/IMG]The second male, of the two I received, has now grown up to begin his first displays. He is much smaller than the more mature male above, but shows the potential to become just as magnificently colored.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/DNYc9P.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/ALuF8F.jpg[/IMG]These photos were in the video, I add them here as well.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/633/A3S8pI.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/CCWsSU.jpg[/IMG]
The male instantly chose the canister as a nesting site over the leaves and bamboo caves that he had two weeks to investigate and use as nesting sites – it was amazing – half hour after canister added – he was in it, the next day bubbles were in it, a day or so later the spawning took place in it. The leaves were in there already, as you thought – resting upon some bamboo sections (which were becoming anaerobic, even though well boiled before adding to the tank) so I removed the bamboo and put in the other fresh materials and the leaves back in. Then he instantly moved the clutch to somewhere in the rearranged leaves – I think he has moved the clutch, as you suggest, as he definitely is staying in the back and only comes out to feed, and keep the female away from his secret area.
When I took photo below – it taught me why a paro might like a floating cave – very easy work to build a bubble nest with the air and cave right next to each other. Why are eggs placed in bubbles anyway – O2 requirements? – the male fans the eggs as well – O2 requirements? This male really went for the floating cave – ignoring the submerged leaves and bamboo caves – does it mimic some floating leaves that he would, in nature, choose to use as the spawning site as a regular behavior? And if disturbed (or not) move them to a more secure area in the submerged leaves for further development – (or, if safe, stay in the floating nest?) Every wild betta I’ve ever bred (not that many) has used a film canister for the spawning site, even with many leave caves to choose from. I think I will add pottery caves in with these nagyi and see what happens – I know paros often choose them, like you say – they were my first choice to use with paros – they are in with the sp. palangan now. I will have the leaves, clay caves and canister next time to see what happens.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/RXsi3d.jpg[/IMG]
Micro worms on the way – the tank is swimming with infusoria – artemia is being fed to adults. Conductivity 70µS, pH 5.5 – will continue with lowering conductivity.
Let’s hope he just moved the eggs 🙂 In retrospect, it might have been better to make the alterations to the tank after the eggs had hatched and the larvae were on the verge of free swimming: it would have been nice to observe the development of the eggs into larvae. Maybe next time. Hopefully the male chooses the canister again as the spawning site. I do like the concept of the natural appearance of fry in a well established aquarium and am quite satisfied if that will work in this case. I can also see the value of the the ‘spartan’ set-up with only one spawning/nesting site available – especially if one wants to observe the full cycle of fry development. I may try the second method at some point, but for now, it will be enough if fry will survive and grow out naturally.
PS, the male just appeared for some feeding at the front and was very vigorously chasing the female with lots of displaying – either driving her away from wherever the clutch might be – or preparing for the next spawning.
Well, two hours after the photos of the intact eggs in the canister were taken, they are now missing. The change happened while I was away from the aquarium, so I was not able to observe what was going on. So, either the eggs were moved by the male (possibly due to disturbance of adding the leaves, ect. to the tank (preferable) or eaten (not preferable). The third possibility – even though the eggs did appear to be viable and stuck to the bubble nest, perhaps the too high conductivity rendered them inviable. However, while the female swims casually up front, as always, the male is nowhere to be seen, who also like the front of the tank before spawning, so maybe he is guarding them somewhere amongst all the new spaces..??
I’ve got microworms on order and cultivating micro-organisms now – probably some kind of rotifer – which make good microfood for newly hatched fry. Thanks for the reminder! I find the oak leaves generate a lot of micro-organisms as well.
After 24 hours the eggs appear viable and well glued to the side of the cave. The conductivity is at ~80µS and will be lowered still to ~50 µS or less.
][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/633/RHO4zs.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/OdTy4k.jpg[/IMG]I’ve added a thin layer of small pieces of loose peat fibers and java moss to create many small hiding spaces for fry, yet maintain healthy conditions at the substrate level, not becoming too compacted or anaerobic. Dried catalpa pods, alder twigs and a layer or two of oak leaves are topped over by full strands of java moss clumps to create many more larger spaces for growing fry to hide. (I also removed the bamboo tubes as they were becoming fungused and creating some anaerobic spaces). Let’s see if this experimental system, along with the micro foods, works to help fry to grow up in the tank.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/912/XY38us.jpg[/IMG]I’ve got microworms on order and cultivating some micro-organisms now – probably some kind of rotifer – which make good microfood for newly hatched fry. Thanks for the reminder! I find the oak leaves (added a bunch more to the tank, with a thin layer of shredded peat fibers as well) generate a lot of micro-organisms as well.
Bill, glad to hear you are going! I’m sure it will be an enjoyable experience meeting the fine people of the Paro Project and so much great information and presentations. Enjoy!
I’ll add some more leaves and cover for any fry that may hatch out, leave the female in and lower the conductivity with successive water changes with RO treated with humic substances over the next few days to 50µS. If this current clutch of eggs makes it great, if not, there will be proper conditions for any subsequent spawns.
To create paro suitable water for water changes, I have been using an internal filter filled with a mixture of organic acidic materials placed in a separate container to treat RO water + a slight amount of tap water to facilitate ion exchange. It works much better than the ‘boiling of materials to make a tea which is added to water’ method. This new method results in a quick reduction of acidity to about pH 5.0 and only a mild tingeing of the water – some humic substances, but not so much that the fish become unobservable – thank you Bernd and Pavel for the water treatment recommendations 🙂 .
Peter, you have summed up the situation nicely, thank you. More on this later…
For now, the P. nagyi have spawned today – the situation less than ideal with conductivity at ~100µS and pH of 5.9. However the eggs appear to have all stuck within the bubble nest/cave ceiling, so that is something of a relief.
Should I attempt to lower the conductivity over the next few days? Or just leave it as is and hope for the best?
Should I remove the female to another tank? Or leave her in and see what happens – I think I can net her out, if need be, fairly easily, as she prefers to hang out right at the front of the tank. Advice appreciated.Here is a video combining about 4-5 hours of activity into 15 minutes. There is a lot of movement and the camera work is not so smooth…I post it for learning purposes so new paro keepers have some idea of how a spawning sequence may go in general terms, each species a specific case of course. I was not expecting this so soon, and I have to say it is quite an amazing aquaristic scene to observe. These really are cool animals!
Thanks again to everyone for suggestions and info.Here is one more video of the displaying pair – their colors can be observed – with overhead daylight fluorescent lighting and halogen lighting into the front glass. Still not too brightly lit, and these paros do not seem to mind.
