[David Jones]

Thanks, Pavel, i’m sure the bintan are quite stunning when displaying 🙂 And yes, it does look as if the males angle themselves differently to maximize the lighting and coloration of their fins – and that is really fascinating. It’s just I was expecting to see the classic head-down display of the nagyi and was surprised to see this very interesting variation of it. This is all new to me, so I’m learning with your help.

[David Jones]

Yes, Helene, I have watched your video of your displaying nagyi and was completely taken with the beauty of them – it was that video that really made me see the beauty of the paros! And, the images I posted from the video (daylight fluorescent lighting from above) show the fins as much more solid blue. It does appear that the light source and angle of lighting can render the metallic bands to slightly different colors as shown in some of the other photos taken with the camera – sometimes golden bronze, sometimes lime green – but overall the fins do appear to be blue-green. I include another video (see below) with both daylight overhead lighting and a halogen light into the front of the tank to give a mix of cool and warm lighting and the colors can be seen from differing angles as well. If I have lucked out by getting ‘Cherating’ then ~ 🙂 These really are such fascinating animals.

[David Jones]

Bill, thanks, and I thought they had a listing for the Nagyi just the other day on Aquabid, but I don’t see it any more. I think they must be down to no paros – so hopefully will bring some more in. Will keep a posting here if any spawning is observed.

[David Jones]

Here a video with footage of the displaying male. Enjoy. (Some of the segments are in slow motion).

https://youtu.be/YpaOklHQ5ek

[David Jones]

Thank you, Bennie, for the compliment 🙂 and info on the sumatranus. Do you keep sumatranus now?
And, yes, you have a good eye, there does appear to be some greenish gold glittering areas in the gill covers and even pectoral fins in some of the females as rendered in the photos. As for the black spot in the males- it’s appearance really depends mostly on the mood of the fish, and to a lesser degree the angle of the lighting and camera. There is clearly some kind of dark pigmentation in the basal posterior region of the dorsal fin which is more distinct when the fish is in full color and practically invisible when in a less colorful mode, but certainly not a well defined ocellated spot as is present and diagnostic of P. sumatranus. It occurs in both of the males – and there is even some variation of the coloration between the two males. Based on the photos I could provide, the experts have said these are P. sp. palangan (and associated names), and that, no doubt, is as trustworthy an opinion as we are going to get – in any case, definitely not the standard sumatranus.

Best regards,
David

Two photos taken today:
Male – shows something of the coloration and finnage.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/HIu5FO.jpg[/IMG]

Female (more distant in the tank so the humic substance affect the color rendition)
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/b8MeYB.jpg[/IMG]

[David Jones]

Thank you, Andrzej – I have enjoyed your photos as well 🙂 Excellent biotope aquaria and paros you have. Good luck breeding them!

Regards,
David

[David Jones]

I hope to have some results to post 🙂

[David Jones]

Ok thanks for the info on water values – I think it is close to being in a good range. Rainwater over peat sounds good – I will try the method with several acidic organic materials and experiment with methods of percolating. This is an interesting activity of this project. Results to follow.

[David Jones]

Thanks, Pavel! I’ll mix in tap with RO to get more ion exchange and devise a drip method of making the extract – more precisely mimics what happens in nature anyway, with water percolating through accumulated organic matter to create the low values 🙂

[David Jones]

Thank you, DeepIn peat – your knowledge is valued and appreciated – I must re-read your posts to follow up on this water prep experiment. I will follow your advice for now and not make any drastic changes. I will have to add Indian Almond leaves to the mix – I can get them for a pretty good deal, I believe, here in US. I just made an extract of peat pellets (which I had from before), alder cones and oak leaves. However, I used the boiling method, which I understand is not as beneficial as the soak and aerate method, (but I do not like to sound of air pumps). I added ~25ml of this extract to 4L of RO water and and got 28µS and pH 5.7. The color was light/medium brown. I’ll add more of this same extract to another L of RO in greater volume and test the result.
Regards,
David

[David Jones]

Yes, Bernd, you are right! By removing CO₂ in photosynthesis the plants can raise the pH. Thank your for the reminder, I think that solves the puzzle of why my pH is not going further down.

The questions are:
Is pH 5.5-5.7 low enough to minimize bacteria load that could harm the eggs/larvae? If not, should I remove plants to lower pH? or use acid to lower pH?. I would like to keep plants if possible – I see many of the good paro breeders have quite a few plants in their tanks – are they getting low enough pH, even with the plants? One thought – at 55µS, maybe my pocket pH meter gives an incorrect reading (to high) due to low conductivity? I will re-calibrate it soon and see if the reading changes.

And, is conductivity of 55µS=low calcium and other minerals low enough for eggs to stick to the roof of the cave and develop? I think I can lower it with more RO water changes and will do it.

In any case, for the “keeping phase” perhaps the current levels are OK? For breeding they may need to be lower. One step at a time, the pair must grow to a compatible pair, we’ll see how it goes.

[David Jones]

One month update: Water parameters: conductivity 55µS, pH 5.7, Temp 25C. I’m having difficulty getting pH down into the 5.0 level (or below). I am treating RO water with alder cones. I’d rather not use chemical acids to lower further, but if it is thought to be necessary, I can try it. I recall reading on this forum about someone spawning parvulus at 6.0 or above? I know some paros will require lower pH to spawn, yet I’ve had wild bettas (brownorum) spawn and fry grow out at pH of 7.5! (prolifically).

The rearranged “apartment” for the separated pair – I added oak leaves to help with lowering pH and provide additional levels and hiding places. I’ve increased the floor space by another 5cm in length (30cm x 25cm), to give them some more living room.
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/KnpjjE.jpg[/IMG]

Nothing new; more of the same look in photos…but please enjoy just the same (and I will hold off for a while until something of interest emerges 😉 ). However, I do not see the dark spot in the dorsal fin of this male developing to any greater extent.
Male
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/3tUgwl.jpg[/IMG]

Pair
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/633/1UyQv3.jpg[/IMG]

[David Jones]

21 day update: Water parameters: conductivity ~70µS/cm³ (will continue with RO water changes to get even lower); pH ~5.7; Temps ~25-26C.

A few photos (tea-colored water makes it difficult to get good ones) showing a color change in the female – she now has strawberry-reddish colors – very striking. The male has gone mostly less colorful in comparison, as the female is the dominant fish. Still feeding well and co-existing relatively peacefully.

[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/909/ihsCEB.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/29pKFf.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/908/LmgeVd.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/1sGgbd.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/lLV4M9.jpg[/IMG]

[David Jones]

Thank you, Peter, for kind comments and for the additional collection information – I have it saved for reference. It was a lucky find! I am very happy for the sake Dr. Link and the other paro keepers (and for the fish themselves) that this form is now known to still be extant. Hopefully there will be success in breeding them within the PP network in the future.

Also the habitat info is useful – and it is the way I have the fish set up, as it turns out. Lot’s of java moss, water of pH 5.5 now – conductivity of ~100µS (could be lower) – no filter=still water, humic substances in the water, temps 23-26C. I separated out one pair into 25cmX25cm of aquarium space with 7 inches deep water. Right now, the female is the boss. They are coexisting fairly peacefully, eating well, but the female chases the male away from time to time – he can hide in the peat fibers and java moss until she calms down. I will keep an eye on the interactions and if more space is needed for the pair, I’ll increase it. So following the advice of the breeders – hopefully with proper water, live foods and correct temps – something good will happen. The commotion of separating the fish has made them very shy now – so probably no good photos until they settle in again.

Glad to hear about the sumatranus being secure in the hobby over there – it is a really interesting species. It would be great to see some good photos of them from the current generations on the forum 🙂

[David Jones]

Thank you, Peter, for this fascinating information! Given this conclusion, how do you suggest they be referred to? P. sp. Palangan CI 2015 or something similar?

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