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Sulawesi as never part of Malaya. It was ruled by natives until first the Portuguese and then the Dutch arrived in the 1660s. From 1669 The Dutch East India Company ruled, then it became part of the Dutch East Indies in 1905. Apart from a period during WWII, the island has been part of the Republic of Indonesia.
I have not been able to find any proof of C. pareparentis parvidentata existing outside Sulawesi, but will keep looking. I’m sure the case will stay open for a while yet 😉
There is obviously ome confusion around which species we’re actually talking about. Looking up Caridina parvidentata returns references to “Malaya shrimp”. Looking up “Malaya shrimp” returns references to Caridina sp. “Malaya”. And C. parvidentata is a Sulawesi species, living in waters with high alkalinity and pH (like cardinal shrimp).
So…are they the same, or different species ? And which what species was actually used in the experiments Peter Finke refers to ? Do any of them live in paros habitats ? Interesting…!
There are a few species that inhabit the very acid peat swamps that house paros. Examples are the Striped Glass Catfish (Kryptopteris macrocephalus) and the Asian Leaf Catfish (Silurichtys indragiriensis). I would not trust them with paros, though. They’re at least double the size of most paros…but maybe it would work in a larger setup than paros are usually kept in.
[quote=”RafEg” post=5640]Hi Ghia,
It surely was not my intention to offend you. I must admit that I have never really gotten that much into the catfish-matter. As you say, I think pH around 6 would still be suitable for pygmaeus. [/quote]
You did not offend me…I was standing up for the welfare of the fish, not for myself. That someone does it and the fish live, does not necessarily mean they’re fine with it.
Note also that I said “..a pH much below 6..”. And when we’re talking paros, we’re often talking “much below 6”.[quote=”RafEg” post=5637]
Another option would perhaps be corydoras pygmaeus or the like. [/quote]
As a long time corydoras enthusiast and keeper/breeder, currently with 3 tanks dedicated to these fish, I must protest. Yes, corys need acidic and soft water, but keeping them at a pH much below 6 for any lenght of time is not acceptable.I would turn the question around : what kind of catfish can live with the paros ? Finding a carfish that wouldn’t take eggs is difficult enough…finding one that could live with the extreme water values in a paros tank is near to impossible. I donæ’t know of any, but maybe someone here with good local knowledge of paros habitats may be able to give a better answer.
Thank you, 7 Zwerge…I was also starting to believe there must be a misunderstanding. I should have said “Osmose Anlage” instead of RO-unit, perhaps 😉
Bernd, are you saying that RO-water is “not free from chemicals” ? After all, it is used to remove “chemicals”, not add them. The Aqua medic Easy Line 90 takes my water from a TDS of well over 100 mS down to 2-4 mS, and at least the paros here seem to thrive (and have bred) in it…
Getting a RO unit would save you some of the worries concerning water preparation. I have the Aqua Medic Easy Line 90…not too expensive, and easy to use.
If you use Seachem buffers, your TDS will go up. So, as Deepin peat said, stay away from chemicals.
Eyedropers are (usually) short things that do not work for this purpose. The pipette has to be LONG.
Moina : I bought “sleeping eggs” from evilbay…without any high expectation of success. They were started in a small plastic coke bottle and hatched in about 8 days. Then i started feeding them with some algae paste and a tip I found on the net : A mixture made from Gram flour and water, kept in the fridge. Since then, it has been a question of “potting them up” into bigger containers as they grew and multiplied. All they need is light, I use a clip-on LED lamp 24/7. I have a doc about breeding them, if you’re interested.
Yes, this is exactly how I do it, too. I have an extremely long plastic pipette and feed very small amounts og BS naupli under the catappa leaves where the paros like to hang out. Any surplus naupli from a hatching is evenly distributed in all my cory tanks. They go wild 🙂
I now have a good culture of Moina naupli to harvest, too. Breeding them is even simpler…fresh water, no air, just light and food. And they live on in the tank until they’re eaten. I use exactly the same pipette method, and the Moina naupli tend to swim near the bottom…very convenient !
I wondered about that, too…fresh artemia naupli can’t be ‘spoon-fed’. A half teaspoon of fresh naupli would be gross overfeeding, and would foul the water. I use a long pipette to direct the naupli at the fishs’ hiding places.
You’ll have to wait until green water developes, the smell of such water attracts the mosquitos. The start can be seen as small “rafts” of brown/dark eggs, then you’ll see the larvae moving in the water. After a while you can observe them hanging head down from the surface. That’s the time to harvest them.
