The
PAROSPHROMENUS PROJECT

The
PAROSPHROMENUS
PROJECT

Jacob

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 83 total)
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  • in reply to: Low Tech style experience with Parosphromenus? #8064
    Jacob
    Participant

    What about pistia, water lettuce? It has leaves in the air and no need to root in the substrate.
    How does it compare to submerged water sprite for keeping the water clean?
    And is it a plant that could alter the water chemistry too much like “normal” plants will?

    in reply to: P. Bintan #7669
    Jacob
    Participant

    They also have harveyi listed, is it the real harveyi or is that not known yet?

    in reply to: Illness, – black coloration of fins #6437
    Jacob
    Participant

    I have one female nagyi that has black marks on her dorsal, and a few black marks on her upper body and one on her tail.
    It looks like random melanistic blotches, black coloration with no texture. Most of it is on the dorsal, several blotches. The tail has two smaller blotches.
    There are two males with her, I saw black splotches on the tail of one of them, it is showing breeding color and acting fairly normal, still has the splotches though. The other male is hidden in a cave and I can’t see him.
    I don’t think the other separate tank which has one pair in it is infected, or hasn’t shown it on the fish yet.
    Any treatment, other than water changes and cleaning out rotting material, to try?
    If the fish stays the same with these markings on it, is it likely that it will still reproduce and if it does is there some health problem passed on to the offspring?
    It’s probably a matter of time whether or not it improves on its own, gets worse, is contagious, etc.
    This tank does have a snail problem, and has had live blackworms as food.
    If the disease is black spot, snails are said to be part of the life cycle of the parasite.
    If it is environmental, caused by rotting material in the tank, maybe it should then clear up with improved conditions.
    Copper sulphate is mentioned as a treatment for black spot, but that would probably be dangerous wouldn’t it.
    Maybe salt or flubendazole works, I’m using flubendazole soon anyway for hydra.

    in reply to: “sentang” and nagyi juveniles available in Mass #6323
    Jacob
    Participant
    in reply to: 5 adult and possibly 20 juvenile nagyi available #6304
    Jacob
    Participant

    They are accounted for already.

    in reply to: ammonia in paro tanks #6180
    Jacob
    Participant

    sorry, wrong category of forum.

    [color=#0044ff][i]Hi Jacob I moved it into another category – methods. That would be better 🙂
    Helene, webmaster[/i][/color]

    in reply to: Peat or Me trying to not be a hypocrite for paros #6012
    Jacob
    Participant

    I use api ph down, and much more than a few drops. Their website says it’s sulfuric acid. My fish grew and bred well so this must not hurt them that bad, still is there a reason phosphoric acid is preferable?

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5731
    Jacob
    Participant

    Lowering the ph seemed to solve the problem of not eating.
    Both males seem aggressive to the females, don’t know if this is universal or maybe an indicator of species.
    This third spawn in two weeks will hopefully survive with both san francisco artemia and vinegar eels.

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5719
    Jacob
    Participant

    I will have to wait for them to breed again and pay closer attention so I can get more useful information for knowing which species it is. Then I can start a thread in the US section about identifying this locally available parosphromenus.

    Right now the male is guarding the nest alone and is sometimes leaving it to harass the female. Seems like territoriality and defense and not breeding, though the male is in full color and the female is lighter than usual if not in breeding color.

    One fry swam away from the nest and was retrieved by the male. Seems like many fry or partially formed fry (wriggling but immobile) dissappeared, but there is a large quantity of new eggs on the same leaf. He is guarding that one fry or more that I haven’t seen, and some new eggs simultaneously. Or he hid those eggs and moved them but I doubt that.

    They’ve shown head down courtship.

    Also, the other pair is not eating. They look and act less lively than the pair that bred, and have lost some weight. There are no other signs of sickness other than not eating and somewhat different behavior. Do they stop eating if water conditions are wrong or is it usually from disease? Edit- the male has made a few motions like he ate bbs or tried to eat something off a sponge filter. Still not much eating between the two of them.

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5713
    Jacob
    Participant

    There was a picture on igl.de that is currently unavailable that showed a displaying male, and it had bright red banding right near the blue banding. When the males I have display it is mostly black, maybe opallios also get very dark when displaying but based on the picture I mentioned I would think I would see a little more red. I will have to get a picture up but might not be able to for a day or two.

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5711
    Jacob
    Participant

    While one pair breeds, the other refuses food. If the only signs of illness are refusing food, losing weight and hiding, what does that mean?
    Probably so many potential reasons it’s impossible to answer the question, but I want to try and get them eating, so I ask it anyway.

    Also, if the unpaired fins of the male are mostly black with blue-green edging this is probably not actually opallios, the red color near the iridescence is pretty obvious if it’s opallios? I have no good camera at the moment.

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5709
    Jacob
    Participant

    The male is guarding eggs, I confirmed. I ordered san francisco brine shrimp and have rotifer cysts on the way.

    There is an aquabid listing for paramecium multimicronucleatus. It says it’s a large paramecium. Still appropriate for the fry?
    http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?foodl&1375166664

    I also contacted this local supplier of paramecia for labs growing zebrafish. It is expensive , maybe the previous cheap culture is good enough.
    http://www.parameciavap.com/par.html

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5707
    Jacob
    Participant

    One male is guarding an anubias leaf that has a bubble nest under it- now I’m editing this post to say he swam away and ate artemia so maybe he is not guarding anything other than an empty bubblenest. The female seems like it’s hiding from him so must not be ready to breed.

    Also editing to shorten this to the question I previously wanted to ask- how are rotifers cultured? Do you use green water or do they feed on detritus and can you establish a population in a tank that already has copepods and other competitors? Or is it typically just daily harvesting of rotifers and targeted feeding of the fry?

    Also sorry I never used the thank you feature, other people are using it and I never did after having asked so many questions!

    in reply to: possible opallios breeding #5687
    Jacob
    Participant

    Yes, I definitely don’t want to keep them like this for long and have problems with fry predation and crowding. I have a separate empty 5 gallon for one of the pairs, it’s not set up because I didn’t expect them to turn into adults this fast.

    I will leave the dominant pair in the current tank and put the extra pair in the new tank.

    I did see the dominant female bullying the weaker female. Noticing lots of chasing and aggression, so it will be good to separate the other pair soon.

    in reply to: Tweediei & Nagyi Available in the U.S. #5681
    Jacob
    Participant

    http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/30578766_TB4McD#!i=2639285459&k=rFpDxGK
    In the background, is that a parosphromenus?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 83 total)