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Hello Maurice,
Nitrosomonas occurs at any for aquaristics relevant pH values (2-10). Only the fastest growth rate is around 7-8.
Greetings
PatrickParo-Aquariums are standing in shelfs, I use 1x T5 8W for single 25l (40cm) and 1x T8 36W for two 45l (50cm). Aquariums are very dark, because the surface is covered with Salvinia and Mayaca and they are filtered with peat.
Hello,
I do not think this kritter keeper is a good idea. Water quality is hard to handle and I can not believe that the pair will breed in this tiny box. And the box is too small to raise up the offspring. If you want to breed in this aquarium, it is possible to divide the aquarium with fine foam filter material in two, but in my opinion the best way is to buy a second aquarium (25l).
Greetings
PatrickThe reference is:
Krause, H.-J. (2007): Handbuch Aquarienwasser. Bede-Verlag GmbH Ruhmannsfelden, 6.Aufl., ISBN 978-3-927 997-00-5(book is in German language)
If you want to know more about conductance, search for “Square-root-equation Kohlrausch” and “Wheatstone bridge”
useful link in german: https://www.uni-ulm.de/fileadmin/website_uni_ulm/nawi.inst.251/Didactics/elekleit/html/index04.htmlIn my opinion it is not necessary to test the redox potential. Fish are not sensitive to it. It is high in water with low organic content and a lot of oxygen and low in water with organic material and low oxygen contant.
Greetings
Patrickat very low pH value, conductance is mainly effected by [H+]
Conductance at 25°C only [H+]:
pH µS
3,2 239
3,4 152
3,6 97
3,8 62
4,0 39
4,2 25
4,6 10
4,8 6,5
5,0 4In your case (theoretically): 215 (cond. after water change)-44 (cond. before water change)= 171 (cond. caused by H+) –> pH 3,4
@ yankadi:
all M. kretseri died (this species does not tolerate very low pH, only 2 Paros died). I think a sudden drop of acidity (pH at 3,4) is deadly for Paros too. They tolerate very acid water, if they have enough time to adapt to low pH values. But a is deadly.Hello Andrzej,
Your aquarium gave me a lot of inspiration, I love the natural look – thanks. You collected wood in the forest. What kind of wood do you use, and where do you collect it? Do you have special methods to handle the wood and the bamboo-sticks (boiling, removing bark, watering…)? Do you remove bamboo-sticks after a few time? What kind of gravel have you used? Quartz?
And one quetion to you all:
Have you ever used living willow branches in the aquarium? I heared willow can soak a lot of ammonium, nitrate and minerals out of the tap water…and it can grow submerged for a long time.Greetings
Patrick[quote=”Peter Finke” post=3893]I am not sure whether this strange structure is funghus; I had it myself several times. I do not know under which circumstances they occur, however. At any case, it is not dangerous at all.
But the other, more important thing is that small bubble-nest: At least on one picture is the bundle ob bubbles to be seen. Very rarely Paros build a small bubble nest within a thick structure of algae or higher plants, for instance Java moss. I had it myself twice with P. paludicola and P. linkei, too.[/quote]Sometimes P. pahuensis build bubble nests in plants too. The “structure” looks like freshwater Bryozoa (Süßwasser-Moostierchen).
Hello Dorothee,
Avoid bacteria “unknown” to the fish (no other new fish and plants and no water or decoration from other tanks).
I feed my selatanensis only with frozen blackworms and whiteworms and living artemia nauplia. The Sphaerichthys species eat dead food from the ground as well as from the surface, so it is no need to feed living blackworms.
Do not feed too much! Adults need only very small portions of food.
You can trigger the reproduction with blackworms. When I start feeding more frozen blackworms, they start mating/breeding.
Young Sphaerichthys need a lot of food. Do not feed to big things, because they can not breath with (for example) big larvae in the mouth.
Do not keep them too warm. Temperature around 25°C in enough. PH 5-6 and the water as soft as possible. Peat or other humic substances are not necessary.
Greetings
PatrickHello Stefanie,
I use the same method as you “the just do nothing-method” and it works. The populations are growing slow. I always had problems with feeding very young Paros. Many died after feeding Artemia salina or Turbatrix aceti as a result of an increase of bacteria (I think). Hiding in a dense layer of Salninia they prey on smaller food for the first week and this food seems to be better for their health and growth. After one they eat Artemia salina (feeding once per day).
Greetings
PatrickHello Robert,
Important is the electrode. I use Greisinger GPH 014 with the electrode Greisinger GE 106. The GE 106 works still in water with low conductivity. The Greisinger GPH 014 looks like “from the last century” but it is good and cheap.
Greetings
PatrickI ordered Betta channoides last winter. They arrived over a distance of 180km via specialized transport with heat pack in a Styrobox. Water temperature was around 16°C and both fish were dead. A heat pack seems useless to me if the transporter is not heated and the temperature is below 5°C… The transport company was “specialized” but the first question the driver told to me was: do fish really survive such transports?
Last Sunday I transported 8 Sphaerichtys selatanensis in my heated car in a “Kühltasche” cooling bag? without any problems over a distance of 400km.
I never use transport companies again to deliver fish!
