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Hallo Matthias,
meine Erfahrungen zu Aquarienböden. Quarzsand ist einfach abzusaugen, aber zu hell. So genannter Garnelenkies, eigentlich Grobsand mit einer Körnung von 1mm, finde ich sehr gut geeignet. Futterreste sinken auf diesem Boden nicht ein. Allerdings ist er viel zu teuer. Die besten Erfahrungen habe ich mit einer Lehm-Sandschicht (1:10) gemacht (Höhe 5cm), die von einer dünnen Schicht (1cm) Farbkies (3mm Körnung) abgedeckt ist. Hier sinken zwar kleine Futterreste (z.B. tote Nauplien) ein, bleiben aber auf dem Lehm-Sand liegen und können daher ebenfalls einfach mit dem Schlauch abgesaugt werden. Das geht aber nur bei einer sehr dünnen Kiesschicht, die quasi nur zum Abdunkeln des Sandes dient. Wird der Boden von Wurzeln durchwachsen und von Schnecken gelockert, läßt sich damit eine hervorragende Wasserqualität erzielen.
Viele Grüße
PatrickI think I will put the next juveniles in a new small box (3l).
At the moment I can not see if the larvae are eating. In the free water are a lot of rotatoria and paramecium, but the larvae hide in the salvinia roots or on the ground.
Hallo Bernd,
ja das hat zum Glück bei mir auch sehr gut funktioniert. Ich hatte erst die Befürchtung die Larven absaugen zu müssen, aber sie hingen fest an der Decke meiner Tonhöhle. So konnte ich sie mit dem Wasser in der Höhle in ein Vollglasaquarium umsetzen. Am nächsten Tag fingen sie an in der Höhle umher zu huschen, ich nahm die Höhle vorsichtig aus dem Wasser und alle Larven schossen davon.
Greetings/ Viele Grüße
@ kindai: sorry I do not have a digital camera.
today the larvae are swimming free, but some individuals died during the night. The larvae are very shy and swim very wild through the aquarium when they see me. I feed them with paramecium and rotatoria. In the morning, I made a water change (50%) with water from the Paro-aquarium and added some java moss.
Then I put the cave back to the adults – one minute later the male occupied the cave again and became black. I think they will breed again in a few days…
Eight days after the fishes spawned, I put the cave with the larvae in a small aquarium with 4l water from the Paro tank. The black larvae are hanging inside the cave. I put the very light air stream a few centimeters away from them. Water parameters are: Conductivity 30uS, Temperature 23 degrees C, pH 5.
I hope it works!
After the cave was out of the Paro-aquarium, my female attacked the male heavily. Now I covered the aquarium with an blanket.
Perhaps she will be calm again after sleeping…
Thanks for your help! Now my Paro male is breeding again. Next week I try to suck the larvae in a small box (4l). My artemia are from San Francisco, the name of the company is Sanders. So perhaps they are small enough. If not, I bought 2 plastic bags with marine rotatoria and I started a culture with protogen and one with moss. I hope in the moss are rotatoria too.
Hello Jacob,
I hope I understand you right: the plants arrive in plastic pots with planting medium and that you want to cultivate the plants in pots (plastic or clay pots?). Plants are often put in rock wool. The rock wool contents a lot of P and N and it looks very ugly. So you need another substrate. And please use clay pots.
I use special subtrate for plants (JBL Aquabasis) in two Aquariums to cultivate Echinodorus. This product is sandy clay with a little bit of peat. Above the substrate is a layer with gravel. The substrate does not effect hardness, pH or N and P content in the water and the plants grow well. I think the substances sand and clay 10:1 and a little bit of peat or leaves and perhaps some ashes of wood should be good for cryptocoryne too.
Blackworms are very good, but perhaps you can cultivate and feed Daphnia or Moina too.
Greetings
PatrickHello Dezz,
I use 100% RO-water, peat, wood and leaves in all my aquariums (4 South America and 1 Asia with Paros). The water is acid and very soft, but I never recognized pH crashes. All plants including the often called hard water plant Vallisneria grows well.
Greetings
PatrickHello Helene,
I had the same spots on the head of Apistogramma. At first fishes with spots showed no changes in their behaviour but some weeks later they became apathetic and died! I searched in the WWW and found the “black spots disease” caused from Trematods or cancer or Tuberkulose, others say that the spots are caused from dissolved organic material. This phanomenon is widespreat among cichlids, perhaps you find something useful in cichlid forums.
I hope the spots are not the same as on my Apistos.
best wishes and healthy fishes!
Thanks for your help!
Peter, I agree with your arguments. I suspected that uprising will be difficult in such an large tank. Thats the reason why I asked and not acted! So I will put my fry and perhaps one male in a 80cm aquarium. The young fishes are not many and they are little, so I must not react quick. But at the moment I have problems with my second Paro male (25 l aquarium). The alpha male was/is breeding permanently. He is smaller than the other, but a lot more agressive. Now the second male becomes agressive too and he wants to be the alpha male. The fishes had a lot of fights during the last week, and lost some scales. If the fights become harder, I will put one of the males in an 60cm aquarium togeher with Poecilocharax weitzmani, but only to safe his life and not for a long time. Because P. weitzmani occupies caves too and I dont want to mix different species with the same ecological niche in one aquarium.
But in general, I think its possible to create stable water parameters in large(r), planted tanks. But I have only experience with soft water in a middle size aquarium that contents 200 l with a group of D. maculatus (clear water cichlids). The pH is stable at 5 and conductivity 20-25uS. Water changes every week 50 l.
Thanks for your answers!
Greetings, PatrickHi Helene,
I can not speak danish, but I can read a little bit. I know some words in danish/norwegian and compare the other words with german and english. I hope I will understand a little bit 🙂
I found this work, while I was searching for some articles about Parosphromenus via google scholar. I found some more articles from springer link, but they want money for the articles if you are not locked in. But I hope I can search and download the articles at the university in a few days.
I found one article for free about phylogenetic relationships of Labyrinth fishes. I dont have the link but the citation is:
Rüber, L., Britz, R. and R. Zardoya (2006): Molecular Phylogenetics and Evolutionary Diversification of Labyrinth Fishes (Perciformes: Anabantoidei) – Syst. Biol. 55(3): 374-397I think it is very important to discuss the groth rate of fish. Because every one wants to know if he raises the fish well. I have only little experience with Parosphromenus (see #215). In the past I searched for this topic (groth rate of Apistogramma, Dicrossus and Poecilocharax) in the literature and www, but I found only very poor information. Perhaps some breeders can share their data with us. So we can create a table with groth in cm and time in weeks/months for several species.
